
The beacon of hope and light for Pakistan is extinguished. The country marred by communal riots and terrorism since their independence had a flickering hope when their Former President Benazir Bhutto arrived in Pakistan in October of 2007 after 8 years of self-imposed exile. All the hope came to an end abruptly miring the nation into a shroud of darkness and uncertainty with her assassination.
Benazir was the first women president of an Islamic nation. She was a very special and a rare breed in Pakistan – well educated, extremely handsome, exuding dynamism, and bravado both in action and speech. Her charisma magnetized not only the Pakistani youth, but world leaders as well. They respected and celebrated her as the ray of hope and pillar of strength for Pakistan. She was seen as a friend and not a foe by the Western world. Her education at Oxford and Harvard, her liberal outlook was certain to change the fundamentalist landscape of Pakistan. The nation gave her a thunderous welcome in Karachi this year after seeing their leader emerge from exile – Florence Nightingale was back again.
Anarchy, dictatorship and terrorism were not new to her. Though her personal life was marked with grief, chaos, separation, she was determined to light the lives of her countrymen and bring an end to suffering in Pakistan. In her youth she witnessed her father overthrown by the Military leader Zia Hul Haq and later hanged to death. Her family, the source of strength and support was continuously attacked. Mysterious death of her two brothers and imprisonment of her husband shook her confidence, but only made her resolve to fight stronger. The single mother was left alone nurturing her 3 kids in London. Was it determination, was it courage, or was it resolve, what kept her marching forward? In one of her interviews she mentioned drawing strength and inspiration from Mrs. Gandhi and Joan of Arc. There had been multiple attempts on her life in the recent past but she was confident no one can take her life away unless almighty decided. She knew life came with no guarantee. She held on to her faith without fundamentalism and was determined to serve the country and improve the quality of life at the grass roots.
Her life experiences made her outlook mature and transformed her to be the mother of Pakistan. In her recent interview she outpoured her love for the people of Pakistan and attributed her return to serve and care of her children risking her life again. There was no anguish or fear, but only care and love. In the NY Times Op-ed column last month she wrote, “It is dangerous to stand up to a military dictatorship, but more dangerous not to.”
The absence of democracy, pronouncement of emergency, ex-presidents in exile, dissolution and incarceration of judiciary, and gagging press punctuates Pakistan’s climate today. Terrorism, chaos, vandalism, and uncertainty are the way of life in Pakistan. Suicide bombers struck a few meters away from her convey on the night of her return to Karachi. In her recent email interview to Wolf Blitzer (CNN) she had mentioned about her security lapses and clearly pointed fingers at the existing anarchy for law and order failure in Pakistan. She also held the autocrat Musharaf responsible in case of her assassination. May be she new her end was coming? Her life came to an end on the same soil where her father was put to death.
The world mourns the death of a charismatic women leader in the West Asian History. A nation crippled in the hands of tyranny and terrorism was looking forward to the general elections to reinstate democracy and rebuild the crumbling nation, but today their hope is once again extinguished. For Pakistanis Life back to normal - chaos, darkness, bloodshed and more brutality.




It takes a day to travel from Kedarnath to Badrinath. I reached Rudraprayag in the afternoon and halted at Syalsaur for the night. The cottage was situated in the valley right on the banks of Alakananda. I was surrounded by no houses, it was just mountains and coniferous forest.
Two blankets (razai) were not enough to keep my bones warm on the peak. I had to go to bed with my jacket, socks, and monkey cap to stay warm. Neelkant appears golden for a short time during sunrise (between 5.40 am – 6.00 am). I had to wake up early, dress in warm gear to catch this spectacle.
The temple of Shri Badrinathji is flanked by two mountain ranges known as Nar and Narayan , with the towering Neelkant peak providing a splendid backdrop. This spot was once carpeted with wild berries which gave it the name ‘Badri Van’,meaning ‘forest of berries’. Right below Neelkant is the town of Badrinath and the temple.
For someone like me who has lived in the city for all my life community bathing was really new. My grandmother used to say that they exchanges tales and gossip in the bathing ghat. When I saw the hot water spring and community bathing I remembered my grandma’s tales.
Temple opens very early in the morning (4 am) to chants of Suprabatham and Vishnusahasranamam. Even the Sun god doesn’t come to work if MS Subbalakshmi fails to render Suprabatham and Vishnusahasranamam. May be god made her just for Suprabatham and Sahasranamam. From tiny villages in South to the peaks in the North her voice was resonating. The bakthi effusing in her voice pulled me out of the blanket even in the cold morning.
The original temple that was here is said to have been of very great antiquity, dating back to the times when the Vedas were written. It was destroyed by avalanches or by Buddhists. It is said that the image of Badrinath had been thrown into the Alaknanda during the time of the Buddhist era and was later retrieved and reinstalled by Adi Shankara during the following Hindu revival. The present temple is believed to have been established by him. Others say the present temple was built about 400 years ago bye the king of Garhwal. The temple looks modern now with a colorful “Singh Dwara” or the main entrance gate. The idol of Lord Badrivishal is made of black stones haligram. The details are not well defined, perhaps the result of weathering, when thrown in the Naradkund for several years. The Lord is seated in a "padmasana" posture. The temple has various sevas that one can offer to the lord based on his/her affordability.
Mana Village: Inhabited by an Indo-Mongolian tribe, Mana is considered as the last Indian village before Tibet. Vyas Gufa, Ganesh Gufa, Bhim Pul, Vasudhara Falls (3.6 km) are among the places near Mana Village. Women here spend their winters at home making handicrafts, sweaters, shawls, stoles etc.
I couldn’t resist from having a Cola at India’s last tea shop. Due to snow and extreme winter the shops close when the temple town shuts in November and reopens the following year in May. Apart from shops and catering to the need of tourist people have rear cattle and sheep. Women were busy cutting grass on the slopes and the valleys and carrying them back home.
Vyas Gufa cave: Near Mana village, this is a rock cave where Vedavyas is believed to have composed the Mahabharata and the Puranic commentaries.
There is also a Saraswati Mandir on the banks of the river. We don’t how old the temple is, but the construction seems very new. Within a few meters River Saraswathi joins Alakananda (Keshav prayag) and she is never again seen on earth. It is believed that she is antarvahini and confluences in Allahabad along with Ganga and Yamuna.