The cuts that never made it and the crumbs from the editor’s table

I received an overwhelming response to the Maine travel blogs and people wrote back asking Paul's whereabouts that night. I know it sounds like some mini-version of Television Soap, but I still I felt there was an opportunity to let you behind the curtains and share details on cuts that never made it or the crumbs from the editors table. Hope you will enjoy…

That evening when Paul walked out…

I looked at Stephanie as Paul walked out, but didn’t want to make it too obvious by turning that into a discussion, though we knew where Paul was headed. It was a delicate situation for us, if we let the cat out of the bag then we were giving them an opportunity to trash Paul and by keeping silent we were fuelling too many conspiracy theories about Florida girls and Team India, but nevertheless we remained silent and go down together as “Team India”.

20 mins after Paul left, Stephanie and I finished the desert and said our good-byes to the table and walked out. We were clueless as we walked down the street, but our guess came true when we spotted Paul by himself in the bar by the street corner. Paul was seated in the exact same seat where we were before we headed out for the dinner. I looked at Stephanie and remarked, “this must be Paul’s eight beer for the night, is he on a beer binge or beer diet or Oktober fest at Maine in August?”

Stephanie and I split up and entered the bar from different doors, came from behind and put our hands on Paul. Paul wasn’t surprise at all, infact he asked us to take the chairs on either side. We confronted Paul asking if he was on a binge or diet and Paul responded that he was simply enjoying his vacation. We informed Paul about the possible conspiracies that we would have to face at the breakfast table next morning.

We laughed and Paul came up an idea…

The three-way…. what?… just a talk!

Stephanie lived in Germany for many years and spoke fluent German and Paul lived many years in Russia and spoke fluent Russian and I lived many years in Tamil Nadu and spoke fluent Tamil and also the three of us lived in Chennai at the same time just a mile away from each other.

So do you see something brewing here?

Paul came up with an ingenious plan and said we must shock the gang at the breakfast table next morning. Stephanie and I looked at each other while Paul narrated the plan.

So here is the plan….Paul would delivered a line in Russian and Stephanie was to received Paul’s line and respond in German, while I was supposed to respond back to Paul and Stephanie in Tamil. All three of us were to shake our heads in our own way and keep the conversation going till breakfast finished. How does that sound?

I almost jumped out of my chair in awe and giggles, while Paul calmed me down and said we must alter the pace of the conversation to keep it real and hooking. In the meantime, Stephanie suggested we do a dry-run now and get ready for the following morning. While we were meticulously practicing our dry-run, Paul got distracted by the well-dressed women sitting on the opposite side and speaking with the Mississippi accent. And that night our lines turned out to me more interesting than the woman at the bar. None of us had a clue what the other person was saying and we were in our own world, but having fun together.

On the way back to Mira Monte Inn, Paul, Stephanie and I got busy rehearsing our lines for the following morning and it almost looked like we were under a spell, a humorous one! But for others we appeared to be some drunken and stoned tourists.

Hope you enjoyed munching the crumbs from the editor’s table.

Vacations can be planned but the experiences, happenings, takeaways , humor can never be scripted. Come back next week for some bi-cycle philosphies!

The cycling expedition begins at Acadia, Maine (Part 2)

It would not be an exaggeration if I told you I was the youngest in the group and the oldest was in her late sixties. So now you can quickly calculate the median and average age in the group. A year ago, same time, I was recovering from my heart surgery and my friend Stephanie was recovering from her hip surgery and now both of us were on the cycling trip celebrating our recovery and back to normalcy. Does that give refurbished members of Team India to lead the group?

It turns competitive, bossy and eventually compassionate

Though we didn’t have to call the Queen, fire a gunshot or waive a flag to get us pedaling, but Billy’s call was enough to start the trip in a competitive spirit. The older members in the group (Kansas sisters) decided to take it easy and enjoy the ride, while the Florida girls were making the bicycle trip look like Tour de Acadia.

Every few miles I would look around to see if my friend, Stephanie, was doing okay. Watching Kansas sisters, who come from a flat piece of land struggle on the uphill tracks, Patty, one the Florida sisters, decided to slow down and escort them to the next gathering point. 

The Florida girls were fit and regularly cycled over the weekend and one of them was just too bossy and boisterous. And every time we reached the milestone or a gathering point, the FL girls cheerfully welcomed teams, but failed to do the “Cheerleader” dance.

On day 1: We cycled around Lily Pond, Witch Hole Loops, heard stories about beavers and have Billy show us a Beaver Dam. We circled around Jordan Lake and Eagle pond and enroute we stopped pedaling to click some Kodak moments at picturesque locations. For lunch, we dined on the tea lawn at the Jordan Pond House, overlooking a dramatic, glacially carved lake nestled among the mountains of Acadia.

The hilly side of Billy

Billy, our guide, briefed us on the tracks, he let us take unlimited breaks, and he was kind enough to search our missing team members, but this man also had a hilly side. He would take us through tough terrains and uphill tracks without any warning. And when he heard us huff and puff, he would motivate us by saying, “this is the toughest stretch and you are almost at the end of it”. And when he heard Billy say this couple of times, we realized he was playing a game with us, but nevertheless, he motivated us to finish the target miles for every day. As a reward for all the hard work, Billy gave us tasty lunch menus and bottles of Beer, Gatorade, Vitamin Water and other non-sugary drinks.

On Day 2: We rode on the Park Loop Road of Acadia National Park, one of the finest oceanside boulevards in the United States, and marveled at the mountains rising directly out of the sea, the 107-foot-high Otter Cliffs and the rugged beauty of the surf-pounded coast.

When Paul abruptly left the table

Not sure why, but the three of us never sat together on the dinner table and that evening was no different. Stephanie and I were stuck on one table with the Jewish couple from NY, and we were hoping to get no more questions from them, while Paul was busy yakking with the Florida girls on the other table. Even after 30 mins our appetizers had not arrived.

Suddenly Paul stood up, paid for his drinks and left the place abruptly. Seeing Paul leave the JC from NY served their own appetizers by saying that the conversation on the other table was bad and hence Paul walked out. People starred at each other and nobody knew why Paul left. Since Paul had already had 6 drinks since that evening, Stephanie and I were concerned and moreover I was holding the key to our room and didn’t want him to be locked out.

Paul and Team India on the breakfast menu

And when we reached the breakfast table the following morning, we heard two versions of the story of Paul leaving abruptly. One ofcourse was Paul not enjoying the company of Florida sisters, while the other version was that “Team India” decided to go “somewhere unmentionable”. The last thing “Team India” wanted to get into was get embroiled in a controversy.

Stephanie was tired from the hilly ride on day 2, and she decided to skip today’s cycling trip and go Whale Watching instead. And with only Paul and me on the cycling trip, the rest thought that something went wrong last night between the three of us. Smelling the flavor of the breakfast dish, I told Paul that he must be prepared to answer this question and clear the air. Like I said, the questions were why did Paul leave and where did team India go?

Day 3: We started by riding a portion of the road between Bar Harbor and Seal Harbor, and then took the scenic Cooksey Drive, which winds above the picturesque village of Seal Harbor. Then we took a short walk through the woods to Hunters Beach, an amazing popplestone beach that speaks of centuries of pounding surf. We stopped at scenic Ingraham Point to watch lobster boats hauling their traps or to gaze eastward towards the Cranberry Islands. Post lunch time I received a text message from Stephanie about the sightings on the whale watching trip. Thanks to her text message, it halted the rumor mill in the minds of people.

How about bad weather for a dinner conversation?

With Stephanie opting to sit out on day 3 and sharing her stories from whale watching, and Paul not walking out half-way during dinner, the only interesting conversation was about the impending storm and if they could trade-in their cycling for whale watching instead. The JC from NY, who have cycled across Europe, and the boisterous one in the Florida girls decided to pull out on the day 4 and surprisingly the older sisters from Kansas were ready to ride along with Team India despite the bad weather prediction for day 4.

But the team was happy and proud to complete the kayaking trip on day 3 and watching the dead sperm whale that was yet to appear on the next day newspaper and circle the beautiful Cranberry Island and stare at the coastline of Maine from Atlantic Ocean.

And that morning….

The rain from the previous night had soaked the lawn and I had no choice but to cancel the stretching class. And that also gave me a holiday from Paul’s taunt, “me grabbing and lifting a co-rider’s pelvis in the stretch class”. We kept a close watch at the news and as more dark clouds rolled and the drizzle turned intense the Florida sisters and the JC from NY decided to skip the day.

It was going to be one of the Kansas sisters along with Team India venturing in the gusty wind, freezing rain and winding roads of the majestic Schoodic Peninsula, located just across Frenchman Bay from Bar Harbor. We passed through the resort community of Winter Harbor and its exclusive Grindstone Neck residential area, where Victorian mansions sit at water's edge, before enjoying a picnic lunch at Schoodic Point, a magnificent headland that juts into the Atlantic and creates crashing waves and surf. The heater in the van was in full blast and Billy gave the team Raspberry Flavored Vodka (?) to warm them up.

On day 4, Team India stood tall and envious

And that afternoon, we ended the 16 kms ride with a hot cup of coffee and more than warmed up the rest with our dripping wet stories. The JC from NY had gone on their own trip to see the Car Museum, while the Florida sisters wandered the town in the rain. And we bragged about our scenic ride in the rainy weather, there was disappointed painted on their faces and infact the JC from NY dismissed our achievement by saying “been there and done that”, but team India stood tall and envious.

Can I be your Facebook friend?

How many of us would stay in touch after the trip was not a difficult question to answer n day 6? At the breakfast table, people were busy saying their good-byes, exchanging coordinates and one of them in the group was very much interested to get my Facebook id. And she even said that she doesn’t have an Indian friend on her Facebook and it would be cool to have one. Am I an endangered species or am I something exotic? But that morning the lady with the Camelback waterbag made me feel special like “Maine Lobster”.

On day 6: While “Team India” and “Kansas sisters” decided to stay back, take it easy and pack their bags, “Florida sisters” felt they had to see what we covered in the rain the previous day and they went on a special road trip to watch Schoodic Point.

We had a great time cycling, challenging, competing, complaining, gossiping, clearing the air, and we learnt a lot from each other, but it felt difficult when it was time for good-bye! It was the first trip together for Team India and it was a memorable trip given the medical intervention the two of us needed the year before. More than proving our fitness and abilities, this trip was to share our love, care and affection for each other.

Thanks for coming with me on this 6 day cycling journey and as a reward for reading the blogs, here is the link to the pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/108289564546757100555/Maine

Now that you’ve read the gossips, team dynamics, starred at the scenic pictures come back next week to read what we learnt from the cycling trip.

Here is the link to Maine Coast Bicycle tours: http://www.mainecoastbicycletours.com/acadia_trip.html plan a trip with loved ones.

Exploiting Brand MS Subbalakshmi

The titles “Dedicated to MS”, “An ode to MS”, “Gems of MS”, “Remembering MS”, “Endrendum MS” all sound like titles of music albums, but increasingly many Sabhas host thematic concerts with such titles. Is it to leverage the mileage of the legend and pull crowd into the concert halls? Is it a musical stunt or a cheap imitation in name of thematic concert? What should the audience expect when they go for such shows in the future? How does the audience feel at the end of such concerts?

In an era of themes and schemes

We live in an era of themes; from Silk Sarees to Carnatic concerts we need personalization and an occasion for celebration. Do we really need an occasion to feel special even when it comes to music? Has Carnatic music turned into a commodity and do we need to use seasonal marketing? Do we need to throw a legend’s name to draw audience?

Artist may want to emulate MS, but the journey to bakthi is long, testing and most importantly one needs grace of almighty more than grace of Sabha secretaries and government officials! It is good to remember legends, showcase their contribution to music, and host thematic concerts to keep their gems alive and in circulation, but there are downsides to so many leveraging “Queen of Song”.

What does Brand MS stand for?

MS was the first female artist to receive Sangita Kalanidhi, Nobel of Carnatic Music, and it is a popular complaint (murmur) in the music circles that she has not created students and has left her lineage behind. From mountains of Badrinath to the plains of Kanyakumari, from Sri Venkateshwara Temple at Sydney to Shiva Vishnu Temple at Livermore, California, the temple doors open and even the sun rises to MS’s rendition of Suprabatham and Sahasranamam. Now should we heed to those murmurs and complains?

The MS brand was built inside-out unlike many who are trying to built outside-in. MS was not the kind who appeared in Saree advertisements or acted in tele-serials to build her brand. Infact she stopped acting soon after she took music seriously and married Sri. Sadasivam. From Kaatrinile varum geetham to Kurai Ondrum illai, there would no one in the audience without a tear when MS rendered these songs. Her music and her voice have universally been accepted for quality, bakthi, purity, and more importantly one-way ticket to the inward journey and salvation. Her career is a rare combination of hardwork, dedication, unwavering focus, along with divine intervention and guidance from her husband.

And then they leverage Brand “MS”

Every self-proclaimed “King” in the assembly smirked with arrogance and came forward to pick up and break the “Siva Dhanus” to marry to Sita, but none other than Lord Rama could pick up and break the bow. Call it divine intervention, or pre-destined, or made for each other, there was only one in the assembly of kings who could do it and that were Rama, the Prince of Ayodhya. Such is Carnatic Music and MS Subbalakshmi.

That Evening

This was at a popular Sabha, in a tier 2 city, performed by a popular artist leveraging brand “MS”. Even before the curtains went up, an announcement over the PA system reminded audience of Sep 16, Barath Ratna, MS Subbalakshmi’s birthday, and that the evening concert being dedicated to the legend.

The artist began the concert with Sriman Narayana in Bowli, and then moved to Thyagaraja krithi Yenati Nomu Phalamu in Bairavi and quickly shifted gears to render Thamizh Thyagaraja’s (Papanasam Sivan) Maa Ramanan in Hindolam. The artist tried hard and picked up the Gowlipantu krithi of Thyagaraja, Terateeyaga radha, and even the organizer tried hard to supplement the rendition with the trivia about the krithi on a PowerPoint, but the curtains of divinity simply wouldn’t open. The music was technically right, but it simply failed to evoke the 500 souls in the audience that evening. The only song that even came close to evoking emotion was the Meera Bhajan – Hari Tum haro.

For the forthcoming evenings

Before sabahas announce another concert leveraging “Brand MS” and before artists accept to perform, it will be good homework for both to find out what made MS stand apart from her peers, what made her revered among legends, and what made her music immortal without a lineage. Everyone must understand Carnatic Music has always had a divine purpose and composers used music as a ticket to their salvation and not filling up their pockets with money and homes with awards.

There is big difference between god and humans who dress-up as god and act like one. As rasikas, we all earn to see and hear another MS who would take our soul on a spiritual journey, but we must understand she is an “Avatara Purushi” and women like her and Meera Bai are not born that often, may be once in a several centuries. So, remember this fact before you drag yourself to performance with such themes and titles. Don't encourage people exploiting such a divine brand!

Will the next President of USA solve the Black box mystery and end the Black hole theory?

The Republican and Democratic conventions are over and we all heard the candidates, party representatives, and their spouse vouch for them at the convection. And sadly neither of them was close to understanding the economic situation and prescribing long-term remedies to pull the nation out of the debt trap, add jobs to the economy, restart the stalled economic engine and come up with plans to fund and sustain social security for the retired and Medicaid for elderly.

Both candidates were seen prescribing OTC “Paracetamol” for something as serious as “Cancer” and they were feeding sugary candies to the hungry nation. And both candidates were seen engaging in a convenient ideology debate more than presenting their detailed plans to manage deficits and revive the economy.  

Do these candidates understand their job? Do they have necessary experience and competency to take on the role? Is the nation failing to communicate their needs to the candidates? Have these candidates lost their hearing or lost touch with reality? Are the economists failing understand the economic engine and educate the President? Is the process of electing the President and running the nation flawed? Can’t we use the principles of Capitalism to effectively and efficiently run the machinery of Democracy? One is left with a volley of questions and a one word answer “inconclusive.”

Do these candidates understand their job?

This is the most fundamental question one needs to ask the candidate. And from their nomination acceptance speeches and their plans, both seem to have no clue about their roles. Neither of the candidates was sure how they were going to approach the ever growing mountain of debt, bring back life into the ailing economy and create long-term job opportunities to sustain growth and leadership.

Michelle Obama at the DNC last week narrated a story about her personal struggles, ailing father, mountain of student loan, and how she and her husband started their life together with love and loan. She was brilliant in narrating the story of love and student loan (totals up to 1 trillion dollars) that runs across every home in America, connecting with the audience, making them tear and taking home claps and votes. She even promised that her husband, if voted back to power, will reduce the interest on student loans.

But does she understand that the real problem in America is not the interest on student loans, but the lack of jobs for graduating students and their ability to pay back the student loan. The current economic situation has made the opportunity cost of going to college more expensive than staying out of college and being unemployed. May be the First Lady is not supposed to understand?

Michelle was trying hard to convince the voters that she and Obama came from lower middle class backgrounds and through hard work were able to pay back their debts, and wanted to extend the same logic and convince the nation that Obama will reduce the deficit and help people pay back their debt. This sounds more like a fairy-tale and a plot for a Hollywood movie more than pitch for a Presidential candidate and a plan for an economic fix.

Read the Presidential candidate speeches: Obama Transcript, Romney Transcript

Do they have necessary experience and competency to take on the role?

From being a million dollar question, who needs to take the driver’s seat has now gone to being trillions of dollars debt trap. The seat of the President is the most important seat of power and determines the fate of the nation and people for four years and many at times it takes years to undo the effects of flawed policies and wronged decisions. And every time the parties announce their candidate, nobody ever asks if the candidate understands the plaguing economic issues and is skilled to run, control, and drive economic engine forward. Isn’t that a fundamental and logical approach to recruiting someone for any job?

When Bill Clinton stepped down after two consecutive terms as the President he left the US treasury with no debt and eight years of George Bush and his decision to start multiple wars was enough to leave the country mired in trillions of dollars of debt and cripple the economic engine.

Every candidate announces popular schemes, slew of entitlements and play race politics to win over the popular votes without understanding the role of the President. They announce schemes without looking at the deficit and neither the candidates nor the public understand the long-term effects and repercussions of such scheming policies and entitlements. Is it myopia or lack of understanding of economic principles by the candidates or stupid faith held by the public? Whose judgment is flawed?

Atleast President Obama has a 4 year experience of sitting in the seat of power, facing the heat and questions from the nation, pulling the automakers and Banking sector out of the worst ever crisis,  and constantly trying tricks to reduce unemployment and improve manufacturing index, while Mitt Romney only has track record of outsourcing jobs overseas.  

Is the process of electing the President and running the nation flawed?

The President of United States is not directly elected by the people, but the Electoral College. Corporations and the richy-rich fund election campaigns with an unsigned commitment and unspoken understanding of benefitting from party that wins. As a result, the candidate who assumes of the office of President has more favors to return the Corporate than duties to service the nation. At the end of the four year term, the principles of democracy and office of President seems to have no science or no logic to its operation. Presidents have been finishing their term and getting away paying no penalty for their non-performance and incompetency. The Presidential race seems like the “Game of Throne” and democracy appears to be the “Game of Favor”. Isn’t it time to use the principles of Capitalism to effectively and efficiently re-wire democratic and economic machinery?

Is the economic machine a black box or a black hole?

The President usually handpicks and surrounds him with the best brains in science, economics, foreign policy, health-care, manufacturing, etc. yet they all fail to come up with a formula that will drive the economic engine across the finish line of promises, reduce economic debt, and magically add jobs. Are the President’s promises tall? Are the principles of macroeconomics difficult to apply, predict, control, adjust, and maneuver the economic machine? Is the team of advisors incompetent or is the science of economics faulty? Do principles of science govern the economic machinery? Is there a scientific answer to the game of fame and blame?

The economic machine is a black-box for the economist, voters, media and the President and it gives everyone an opportunity to publish their theories and make their tall claims and false promises every four years. In reality, no one knows really knows who has been the best President and whose decisions and policies have helped the nation progress. How much of it is luck, science and prudence can be argued till cows come home.

For the people the economic engine seems to be a black home. When one of the recent survey questions on the economy asked people if they felt they were better off from years ago, 79% answered “the same” or “worse”. And nobody has an idea as to where the economy is headed and will it ever head north?  

Doesn’t matter if the Republicans or Democrats came to power, until the mystery of the black box is solved, until the right candidate takes the seat, and until the economic machinery is run along the principles of science governed by efficiency and competency, we will continue to see Presidential candidates promise milk and honey flow in America, and economic crises will reappear like a common cold and do damage that of cancer.

Will the 45^th President of the United States of America be any different? Is this election a choice between the devil and the deep blue sea? Will America ever climb out of the debt trap and get back on the throne of being the most powerful, influential and respected among all nations? So try to find your answers before you go to the polling booths, go with hope, but don’t carry the cross of expectations on your back!

Vacation at the Acadia National Park, Maine (Part 1)

From going away to a new location and exploring the unexplored, throwing away daily timetables and waking up to none, experimenting new cuisines, engaging in retail therapy, to partying with friends and newly found friends till 4 am in the morning, we all have our interpretations/definitions/ versions of a “Vacation”. And there is nothing wrong with any of these definitions/interpretations/versions as long its rejenuvates our mind and body. 

I have done vacations by the sea in Asia and South East Asia enjoying saltiness in the breeze and abundant sunshine, ascending the mountains of Himalayas and spending time at Buddhist monasteries in peace, solitude and contemplation, wandering through the wonders of Cambodia trying understanding their culture, appreciating their think-big attitude and expanding my horizons of knowledge and understanding of the world that was. But this trip has redefined my idea of a vacation.

Vacation redefined!

My friends Paul and Stephanie came up with something that none of us have ever tried before, a cycling vacation along the coastline of Maine at the Acadia National Park.  The idea sounded interesting, but my mind back tracked pondering over our physical fitness and endurance required to complete 75+ miles of cycling, kayaking in the ocean and hike up the Concorde Mountain all in 5 days. But as soon as we signed up for our vacation, the three of us got on a fitness regimen that will help us complete the challenge.  But seldom did we realize that the actual terrain can never be simulated in an air-conditioned gym atmosphere and weather, people and our own body can throw last minute surprises.

Finally “Team India” arrives….

Paul, Stephanie and I were the last to arrive at the vacation venue (Mira Monte Inn, Bar Harbor Maine), we arrived at quarter to five in the evening (45mins late) and we were aptly given the name “Team India” (I am sure they knew our India Standard Time secret). After the traditional “Wine and Cheese” welcome (similar to our garland and tikka welcome) that evening we went over to Gaylyn Restaurant by the Ocean front. Since we had not met our fellow cyclist before, we didn’t think twice about choosing who to sit with.  Did I say I was missing the mamis of Mylapore? No!

The NY Jewish couple trait…

Since Maine Lobsters were a delicacy, almost everyone on the table that night ordered went on a Lobster diet and wrestled with the dead crustacean. The Jewish couple from New York on the table was wrestling with something more than just the lobster. They first wanted to know how Paul, Stephanie and I knew each other and then the conversation

quickly headed towards marital status and their marriageable daughter. I was appalled such personal questions being thrown at a stranger they met an hour ago, but then Paul and Stephanie comforted me that it was the typical “NY Jewish Couple trait” and I must back home with such personal questions on the dinner table.

I almost got out of a date

The Jewish couple was impressed with my multiple masters degree from the US and were all the more excited when they found out I was single, but soon their face was dripping with disappointment when they learnt that I was a traveler in the US and not living there. If I had lied that I was settled in the US, the couple would have set me up on a date with their 31 year old daughter. Doesn’t matter where I live, travel, and who I sit with for dinner, once a vegetarian, always a vegetarian!

The morning after

Looking at age group of the fellow cyclist, and the three course meal they had the night before, I offered them a free 30 minute stretching class by the lawn at Mira Monte Inn in the morning. One of them in the group asked me if I could do a short meditation session at the end of the stretching class. I didn’t want to play the Indian yoga master cliché here, but then I didn’t want to douse her enthusiasm to learn meditation. I tried persuading her to understand that meditation can never be taught, but then “meditation was a part of her learning menu” that I could never erase.

The journey with “Hill Billy” begins…

We packed our backpacks with fruits, sunscreen and filled our sipper bottles with water and endurance for the trip. Except for Paul, the rest of us wore our gel cycling shorts so that we don’t feel like a “sore whore” at the end of the day. May be Paul had something biologically inbuilt? He would never share that information!

Billy, the guide who came with us on the trip, briefed us about the terrain and handed over a printed sheet that gave us the directions for the day. Finally our geared bicycles arrived we all shoved our belongings in the zipped basked behind, put on our helmets, adjusted the seats and were ready to coast along Acadia.

Come back next week to find out about our “Hill Billy”, “Florida Girls”, “The Sisters” and more interestingly what the group thought of “Team India”. I will also show some fresh popovers with just a 7 minute shelf-life and delicious blueberries trails at Acadia. Also come back for more pictures from the trip.  

2012 Aranmula Snake Boat Race

Kerala is blessed with everything to captivate, beguile and ensnare strangers, tourists, traders, missionaries, etc. Fertile soil, beauty and tranquility of the backwaters, colorful and aromatic spices (black pepper, nutmeg, cardamom, etc.), rustling noise from the fronds of omnipresent coconut trees, nasal sound, melodic meter, and sweetness from the language (Malayalam), oil massages, and finally, cleanliness and personal hygiene of Malayalis, there is a lot to adore, appreciate and celebrate about “God’s Own Country”! And on this trip I found one more to add to the list, the testosterone powered boat race at Aranmula.

The tradition of Snake Boat Races:

Snake boat (aka Palliyodam) races are the highlight of the monsoon and festival season in Kerala. During the monsoon when the rivers and back waters are filled with clear and fresh rain water, Kerala gets ready to host boat races and the Aranmula is the oldest, others are Alleppey’s Punnamda Lake (Nehru Trophy), Changanassery’s Champakkulam Moolam (the most popular), and Payippad Jalotsavam held on Payippad Lake. 

A Chundam Vallam aka a snake boat is 100-120 feet long and holds about 50 rowers. There are helmsmen, singers and rowers on every boat and everyone on the boat has a role to play. A colorful umbrella at the center of the boat rotates to the beat, energy and vanchipaatu (tunes sung during the race to motivate the rowers and engage the spectators) add to the glitterati. Each village has its own snake boat and their names are etched on tail of the boat and villagers on the banks of the river cheer as their boats race. It is a visual and aural treat to watch testosterone powered boats tearing through the fresh river waters. The Snake boat race highlights many of the characteristics (team spirit, cohesion, energy, enthusiasm, etc.) one needs to be successful in all walks of life.

Read Wikipedia for more information- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snake_boat

Aranmula Palliyodam:

The Aranmula boat race is the oldest and is held during the week of Onam (falls on Uttratadhi star, usually fourth day after Onam). Carpenters do their annual maintenance during the summer by polishing the boats with mixture of fish oil, carbon mixed with eggs to keep the boat strong and reduce the friction during motion. One can see many Palliyodams parked on the banks of river Pampa at Aranmula even weeks before the event. Each of these boats represents a village and is considered sacred. Only the village men are allowed to row the boats and usually dress in white dhotis and wear a cloth around their waist with no foot wear or sunscreen. 

A day before the race, you can catch many of these boats making trips, up and down  river Pampa and preparing for the race. There is ceremonial prayer before the boat is lowered in the water and the head of the village usually is the Captain of the boat. He gives orders to lower, steer, race and cheer them to the finish line.

Here is a video of lowering the boat:

Here is a video from the heats, the previous day:

On the day the race, at around 9 am, the elephant from Parthasarathy temple carries the flame to the beats of chenda melam and leads the parade to the start point behind the PWD Guesthouse at Aranmula. The boat race begins with a small entertainment from the parade of boats from all villages going up and down the river. Teams being to display their power and might at the parade. At around 3 pm the actual race began and this year there was 48 boats.

Here is a video from the race:

For more information on Aranmula boat race - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aranmula_Boat_Race

Where to stay?

Malakkarethu House - http://malakkarethuhouse.com/

Beware: You are entering a zone of fruit bearing trees on the banks of river Pampa, and the density of the trees can give you a feel of a tree house. The choice of trees – coconut, papaya, nutmeg, jackfruit, plantain, mango, amla etc. with resplendent flower is sure to assault your sensory nerves.

A flight of stairs in the backyard takes you to River Pampa, which is revered by puranas and mythology. Watching the river flow and life that comes around it at the crack of dawn, during the day and sunset is purely meditative.

The house is aesthetically laid out incorporating the elements of “Vaastu”. The Kerala style ventilation on the first floor bring precious oxygen from the trees, the mutram at the center of the house brings ample light and sunshine. From the hostess’s heart to the size of the rooms and bathrooms, and the friendly and pleasant staffs, this homestay is a heaven on earth!

Dr. Sujatha who owns this ancestral house, makes the homestay a superior experience with all her care, kindness and affection. She runs this place true to the mantra “Athithi devo bhava”. Every meal she puts on the table is cooked with love and care and served with delicious hospitality. One doesn’t need to worry about quality, quantity and or a plastic smile that accompanies staff and service of a commercial hotel or tourist resort. Dr. Sujatha is a mother, teacher, travel agent, friend, trusted advisor and nature lover all rolled into one. You can be assured of a superior stay experience if you made it your choice to stay here.

When does the Aranmula boat race fall?

The Aranmula boat race is the oldest and is held during the week of Onam (falls on Uttratadhi star, four day after Onam).

Here is the calendar to all boat races and other events in Kerala - http://www.keralatourism.org/festivalcalendar.php

Where to watch the race from?

1. Watch from water: Some people hire motor boats and watch the race unfold from the water.
2. Buy a seat: There is an option to buy a seat (Rs 1000, 500, 250, 100) in the pavilion on the banks of river Pampa to watch the race and tickets are sold at the counter at Sri Parthasarathy Temple.
3. Free spots: There are also ample vantage points on the river that are free and one must get there early to catch a spot.
4. If you are staying at Malakkarethu House, then it is free and you have a private pavilion set-up by the property owner. 

How to get to Aranmula from the train station?

Chengannur is the nearest railway head and there are private busses and autos that ply from right outside the station to Aranmula. The 10 km auto ride to Aranmula should cost around 100-150 rupees.

What else to see in Aranmula?

Sri Parthasarathy temple was built by Arjuna (one of the Pandava brothers) during their vanavaas. There is separate sanctum for Balabadhra one level below the ground.

On the road straight down from main entrance to Parthasarathy temple is Sri Mahaganapathy temple. The frescos on outer walls around the sanctum are riveting, and the notable one is the Sakthi Panchakshari, that has Siva, Parvathi, Ganesha and Karthik.  

What is Aranmula famous for?

Aranmula is the only place in the world that manufactures metal mirrors. These mirrors don’t contain glass or mercury and the metal surface is shined to reflect images as clear as a mirror.