Reprogramming Your Life At The Divine Life Society

In this digital age both devices and humans are very much congruent. As much as devices, humans too need touch, love and care (TLC) and need to connect to a trusted source to upgrade/rewrite their internal operating system and re-purpose/reprogram their life. So, where does one find much needed TLC and a trusted source for this re-purposing exercise?

Guru for the mankind

Realizing the need to serve humanity afflicted by disease, desires and ego, a visionary by the name Dr. Kuppuswamy decided to take the path less travelled to reach Rishikesh in 1924. He transformed himself to Swami Sivananda leaving behind his medical profession for spiritually to emancipate humans eternally stuck in the cycle of birth and death like a hamster running on a wheel.

In 1932, he started the Sivananda Ashram; in 1936 the Divine Life Society and the Yoga Vedanta Forest Academy in 1948, all with the aim of spreading the teachings of yoga and vedanta. Swami Sivananda’s teachings crystallized the basic tenets of all religions, combining all yoga paths into one – the Yoga of Synthesis which he summed up with, ‘Serve, Love, Give, Purify, Meditate, Realize’. His own life was a shining example of the ideal wish to spread his message of love and service.

Where do we head?

The Divine Life Society aka Sivananda Ashram in Rishikesh offers a great opportunity for people to defragment their internal hard disk, upgrade their operating system and clean-up their lives. Inmates at the ashram are expected to follow the twenty tenets of Swami Sivananda. Though it may sound simple to read, it takes time to make that a part of your routine and lifestyle. And staying at the ashram for a week to 10 days is a great way to re-program our lives.

Up before the birds

Life at the ashram begins at 4 am and one can see the lights go up in Kutirs (inhabited by Swamijis). The main shrine complex consisting of a Shiva Temple, Bhajan Hall and Sivananda Samadhi is the epicenter of activity. They are all open at 5 am for people to come in start their routine with meditation, one of the tenets of Sivananda.

Going gaga over yoga?

Right across from the campus, on the main road connecting Haridwar and the hills, is a complex encompassing Sivanada Hospital/Clinic that was started in 1934; it continues to treat people for free. And they recently concluded an eye-camp treating over 300 patients with cataract and other eye-defects from nearby towns. In the same complex is a Yoga Studio against the backdrop of the Ganges and the serene mountains. Free yoga classes are conducted each day of the week (except Sunday) from 6 am to 7 am and even if you forget your yoga mats, don’t worry.

Service begins at 5.30 am

For those who strongly believe in seva and karma yoga, the Annakshetra (Dinning Hall) offers a great opportunity. From cutting vegetables, wiping washed utensils and cutlery, handing over plates and cups to serving the hungry inmates there is plenty to do and derive happiness from serving others.

 

Resetting our palette

The food served at the ashram is well balanced with proteins, carbs, fats and fiber. It is devoid of mustard, vegetable oil, hinge, garlic, onions and is very much sathwik and in line with what Sivananda has outlined in his book Health and Diet.

Breakfast opens at 7 am and we are served hot idlis or Pongal along with a cup of tea. Lunch begins at 11 am and we are served rice, rotis, subzi, sambar and buttermilk. On festivals days and special occasions, there is some luxury and we get served pooris, vada and sweet (payasam, kesari). Evening tea is served at 3 pm and dinner consisting of rice, roti, dal and subzi is served at 7pm. A small chant is done prior to each meal. No breakfast is served on Ekadasi day. In line with Sivananda’s teachings on being self-reliant and the ashram expects you to clean your plates, cups and glasses after each meal.

Shiva Temple and Bhajan Hall

Though Shiva is the main deity, the sanctum contains a Krishna idol made of black marble, Rama Parivar, Ganesha and Ganga Maa all made of white marble. At 5.30 am each day public is offered a chance to do ablutions to the Shivalingam. An elaborate abhishegam is performed every morning at 6 am followed by by aarati and parasadam distribution at 6.45 am. Every evening there is Lalitha Sahasranama Parayanam followed by aarati and parasadam distribution at 6.45 pm. Besides the sanctum is a yagna shala where havans are performed every morning starting at 6.30 am. You can participate in the havans by visiting the Cash Office next in the hospital complex across the ashram.

If you are fond of nama japa the hall adjoining the temple, Bhajan Hall, is the place for you. The Krishna worshipped by Swami Sivananda adorns one side of the hall, while a granite status of Karthikeya adorns the other side. On the inside walls of the hall you will see pictures of saints from across India.

Satsang - Twice a day

Swami Sivananda entered mahasamadhi (left his physical body) on July 14, 1963. Beside the Shiva Temple, they’ve constructed a temple for Swami Sivananda by installing a Shivalinga over his samadhi. Ablutions are done at the samadhi in the morning and even public is given a chance to participate. Vishnu Sahasranamam is chanted daily in the morning and on Pournami (full-moon) Ashtakshara mahamantra is chanted from 7 am to 11 am and from 5 pm to 7pm. Key dates for 2017-18.

Swami Vimalananda, President attends satsang every day for an hour at 11 am where he speaks on topics like Bhagavad Gita, importance of sadhana, Nama Japa, Karma yoga, etc.  The Samadhi of Swami Sivananda is kept open all day for the benefit of those tourists who walk randomly into the ashram.

Similarly, in the evening there is Bhagavad Gita chanting at the Samadhi after dinner followed by satsang by one of the Swamijis on Bhagavad Gita. From time to time visiting artists also perform at the Samadhi. Here is a performance from Krishna Das and a flautist.

Rest and Reading

Amidst the busy schedule from 4 am till 12 noon and again from 4 pm until 9 pm, there is time for a nap and some reading. A small book store between the Samadhi and Shiva temple is open from 9 am to 12 noon and again from 3pm-5pm and sells books written by Sivananda and discourses of his disciples. I picked up a Health and Diet, Yoga Divine Life, and What Becomes Of The Sould After Death for my afternoon read. You can download some of his books here.

Congregation and Contemplation

   

Across from the ashram campus (descend 100 steps) along the banks of the Ganges is Sivananda Ghat. It is a safe place to take a dip in the Ganges and offers a great view of Ram Jhula and the opposite bank. Don’t be surprised to see animals and birds come down from time to time to quench their thirst, yogis practicing yoga and Sadhus reading scriptures.

Also, early mornings and late evenings are great time to mediate on the banks of the Ganges. On special days, Sivananda Ashram holds Ganga Aarti at 5.30 pm in the evening. Though this is not as elaborate as the one held at Parmartha Niketan, but it is done with utmost devotion.

If you need some noise and contact with humanity you can walk along the Ganges till Swami Dayananda Ashram to the west and Laxman Jhula to the east. Also, you can visit temples on the Swargashram side (Rameshwar Mandir) (opposite bank of the Ganges) and in the city of Rishikesh (Chandreshwar Mandir, Venkateshwara Mandir and Chandrmoulieshwar Mandir built and maintained by TTD).

Are you ready for a reset?

At various stages of life our needs and wants change. Some of us get less materialistic and more metaphysical as we age. We seek solitude and ask the simplest of questions – who am I? and end up with a profound answer that changes not only our outlook on life, but also alters the course of our life. Swami Sivananda Ashram is one such place that resets your life and alters its course. This is the only place where you can learn to Serve, Love, Give, Purify, Meditate, Realize. Repeating this routine at the ashram over a week to 10 days is enough to reprogram your operating system and re-purpose your life. The Divine Life Society also organizes a 2 month intensive Yoga Vedanta Course for this who would like explore further on Vedanta.

Book your stay now!

Rooms at the ashram are very basic, yet comfortable. Each room will be provided with a cot, pillow, cupboard and an attached toilet (western) and hot water. You are expected to bring your own blankets. Book your stay by writing to generalsecretary@sivanandaonline.org and remember to read and follow the rules. Though the ashram doesn’t charge you for food and accommodation, but  donate liberally.

How to get to Rishikesh and the ashram?

If you are flying, Jolly Grant airport at Dehradun is the closest and there is good connectivity from New Delhi. A taxi ride from the airport to the ashram costs 1000 Rs.

If you are taking a train, Haridwar is the nearest railway head. Plenty of busses and tuk-tuks ferry passengers to Rishikesh each hour.  A taxi ride from the airport to the ashram costs 1000 Rs. 

Viceroy's Heart and not House!

I watched Viceroy's House, a movie about India-Pak partition. Some of the details shared in the movie wasn't part of our history text books, but convinces you of the capitalistic intent for the partition. Yes, history is written by victors.

We rarely hear good things about Viceroy Mountbatten and his wife Lady Edwina, but movie shows them in a completely different light. Yes, movie showed the Viceroy's Heart more than his house.

Mountbatten is forced to implement a divisive solution and engages in a showdown with Radcliffe, whose line is supposed to have partitioned the two nations. While Lady Edwina ensured people in refugee camps were fed and medical services were provided to elderly and children. 

In all a million people died and it is the largest migration (14million) in the history of mankind. 70 years have gone by, the wound is far from healed and we continue to inflict more on each other. Just a loud thought, what would have happened had Jinnah been assassinated instead of Gandhi? Could we have avoided the partition? Did you know the they Hindu-Muslim conflict was planned to keep India's Soviet leanings under check. Watch the movie to find out by whom and for what.

The New-age Tughlaqs

We’ve all heard history repeats, but do we know imbeciles are also reborn? Before I talk about the current crop of imbeciles, let me remind you of one of India’s famous emperor (pun intended!) Muhammad Bin Tughlaq who ruled Northern part and Deccan region from 1325 to 1351 AD.

 

Now let’s come to the new-age Sultans who are presently governing the USA and India and bear an uncanny resemblance to each other and the famous Tughlaq. 

1. Both Trump and Modi belong to the far right parties who are conservatives, who treat their wives like slaves, impose sanctions on abortions, oppose LGBT community and incite violence along caste (Hindu-Muslim) and racial lines (White Supremascist-Blacks).
2. One says Make in India and the other says Make America Great Again!
3. Rather than building on the foundation laid by their predecessors, Modi disbanded Planning Commission, while Trump took down global warming related content from EPA website and also pulled out of Paris Climate accord.
4. Both of carry a long list of controversial appointments and sacking of those who disagreed with them. Modi started with State Governors to RBI Governor, Vice Chancellor (Nalanda University), Foreign Secretary, Central Board of Film Certification (CBFC) chief, TRAI Chairperson and Supreme Court Judges. While Trump on the other side made controversial appointments including his son, daughter and son-in-law; CEOs in his manufacturing council quit and a never ending list of those who were asked to step down including Surgeon General, FBI Director, White House Press Secretary.
5. Both these egomaniacs started their election campaign on Twitter and continue to be hyperactive on it. Modi on one hand wishes world leaders on their birthdays and condemn tragedies, but fails to speak up when there is lynching and caste related violence at home. Trump on the other hand openly trolls journalist, celebrities and also announces his policy decisions on Twitter without consulting his team of advisers.
6. Modi’s demonetization and draconian Aadhar and Trump’s ending of Obamacare and visa ban created national panic and widespread wretchedness.
7. Modi spends most of his time visiting countries, while Trump squanders his time at golf courses
8. Finally, Modi’s bear hugs are an amusement to world leaders, while Trump handshakes are national embarrassment.

Now that you’ve seen uncanny resemblance of these new-age Tughlaq’s to one another, let’s remind ourselves of the misery brought about by twenty-five years of Tughlaq’s rule to people and the nation. History remembers Tughlaq a crazy Sultan who killed millions by shifting the capital back and forth from Delhi to Daulatabad, levying agricultural tax in the year of famine and replacing gold and silver coins with copper and crashed flourishing trade and so on.

Don't you know how history will remember these two jokers? 

LinkedIn goes Facebook Way!

LinkedIn was started as a professional networking platform for recruiters and candidates to digitally meet and interact. Over the years it has metamorphosed into an ugly platform reeking of self-aggrandization, inflated alter egos, solicitations, trolls and more. Who is responsible for this metamorphosis? Is it the users or LinkedIn which failed to train users on what to post and share.

Facebook and LinkedIn share a common user base who moved on from one to another and killed the differentiation. What should have remained this way.

Is now this way.....

People share crap in the name of office truth because the platform is free or they feel have achieved the peak to dispense free advice and wisdom.

Should frivolous posts like this one be entertained on a professional networking site?

How about such videos with no professional value?

Prostitution and solicitations are two sides of a coin. While parents tell kids not to speak to strangers and adults on this site only want to connect with strangers in the name of professional networking. Is this the right way to professionally network?

Finally, most profiles are nothing but Inflated alter egos to fool the world into believing your superhuman abilities .

From the above examples isn't it evident that Facebook and LinkedIn are not very different? Research shows Facebook fuels low self-esteem, narcissism and anxiety. With the world already bingeing on Prozac and Zanax to treat anxiety and depression, do we need to be another platform that will fuel this even further?

It is definitely time to quit LinkedIn.

Millennials Misunderstood

Recently, I was approached by final year students of Human Resource Management from Madras School of Social work for my comments on Millennials. Here is the transcript of my audio interview.

Let’s first understand about millennials, their growing up years, psychological needs, aspirations, etc. before we proceed with this interview.

Social scientists roughly define those born between 1982 and 2004 as millennials. For our interview purpose, I am going to restrict my sample space to those born and living in urban India. Most of the millennials who I knew were born in nuclear families and may have had 1 sibling at most. As a result, they had very little opportunity for inculcation of values and tradition by grandparents in their early years and had no opportunity to share and care. There is a very high probability of both parents were working and gave them very little time and love in their younger years. They washed the guilt by giving them easy access to money. Love and mentoring was replaced by money, gadgets and freedom. Millennials also grew up in a very corrupt environment where bribes were paid for their school admission, driving license, passport, college admission to jobs, seeding a wrong thought that money can buy everything.

Having set the background for this generation, let’s move on to your questions.

1. Technology – is it a boon or bane for millennials to attain self- actualization?

In earlier generations, food, clothing and shelter were at the bottom of Maslow’s pyramid. But for millennials, wifi and smart phones have been added to this layer. This generation replaced grandparents with Google and human companionship with playlists and games. They make friendships online, order food and grocery online and also make a living online. In fact wifi and technology brings them more comfort than food, clothing and shelter. As a result, self-actualization through technology is no more at the top of the pyramid.

During the 2015 floods, Chennai city was without power and connectivity for a week and millennials for the first time learned that there is a life outside of their mobile. Some desperate ones ran pillar to post to charge their mobiles and get connectivity, while many chucked their mobiles and jumped in to rescue those marooned and serve humanity. I hope this catastrophic event made them realize values and attain self-actualization through serving humanity and not technology.

2. Many millennials consider wealth as the ultimate attainment in life. But then the sense of enjoying life is missing. What is your perception on that?

If millennials were the only generation behind wealth, why would Muslim rulers invade India and British turn us into their colony for 300 years? A famous Thamizh poet Avvaiyar aptly said “Arul illarkku avvulagam illai, porul illarkku ivvvulagam illai” that roughly translates to “One needs grace to find a place in heaven and money to find a place on earth”.

I know millennials who’ve traded their cushy jobs and fat pay cheques to serve humanity (soup kitchens, teach for India, etc.). They support Diversity and Inclusion and have an open mind to bring about equality in the society.

Even if you have statistics to prove your statement, you must understand their growing up years. With both parents working, millennials grew up in a household where money was readily available to make up for lack of time and love. You tell me, why would they grow up to be any different when their upbringing was such? Remember, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

3. Millennials think about their careers in a more linear way.  Is it possible from them to retain the excitement for a longer period of time?

I would like to recall billboards on Uttranchal ghat roads that say “Speeds thrills, but kills” and this caution is appropriate for anyone who is on the fast lane to life, fame and money.

Millennials have had immediate access to so many things (money, power, technology, freedom, etc.) without much wait or struggle. At the twiddle of their thumb they have access almost anything in this world. As a result, there is very low threshold to boredom and less appreciation for life.

Let’s not alone blame the millennials, but as a society make a conscious decision to slow down and enjoy life and nature. If not, we will leave nothing behind except lessons for the next generation. 

A linear mind only thinks of the destination and fails to enjoy the journey. Similarly, millennials who focus on getting to the peak faster and miss out on the scenic journey that kills boredom and experience that comes along with slower journeys. After a few trips they sure to burn out and ponder over deeper meanings of life. I expect a more number of Aristotles' and Platos' among  millennials.

4. What is the best way to train young leaders so they can affect change at a societal and global level?

When I read this question, what popped up in my mind was another question. Are leaders born or made? I strongly believe leaders are born and rise up to the occasion to lead the nation. Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela are great examples of emancipating their society. 

Fundamentally there must be an opportunity in the society for a revolution to break out and a leader to emerge. History reveals that revolutions happened when the fundamentals in Maslow’s pyramid are denied to humanity. French Revolution was led due to shortage of bread, Russian Revolution ended autocratic rules of Tsars and India’s Independence was fueled by self-respect and self-esteem.

Millennials must end their addiction to devices and interact face-to-face with people and go in search of their grandparents who've been replaced by Siri or Cortana. They must also learn build meaningful lasting relationships, learn empathy and values to bring about any sustainable change in the society. If not they would be like Japanese - http://www.bbc.com/news/av/magazine-39784444/rent-me-stranger-for-hire


Enroute to Skukuza

We parked the car on the side and walked towards the office to get necessary clearance to enter. The overcast sky, cool weather and expectation to have some great sightings at sunset were responsible for the gait in our walk. If you expected the woman at the counter to echo our enthusiasm, you are grossly mistaken. She was grumpy and her demeanor reminded us that we were in a wildlife camp and not in a theme park. She demanded our reservation receipt and passports. As my friend decided to stay in the office and have a friendly conversation with her; I rushed back to the car to get the documents. 

With no cars in the lot it was clear that we were the last ones to enter the park. I handed over the documents to her and as she was processing our paperwork, I asked her if we would encounter animals on our way. I never realized that such an innocuous question would unleash the animal in her. She snapped at me and said we were already late and needed to cover 60 kms to get to Skukuza. Does it mean we must be prepared to encounter animals on the way? I didn’t know how to interpret her cold silence.

I now knew what kind of conversation my friend must have had with her while I made the trip back to our car. Though her tone and demeanor was far from welcoming, I felt she was reasonable when she gave us the entrypass. Had my friend roughed it up with her, she could have easily denied our entry into Kruger using weather and safety as excuses. Before we left the office she warned us not to stop anywhere and exceed the speed limit of 40km/hr.

The women didn’t care what came between us; we had to get to Skukuza by 6 pm adhering to the speed limit. Paul and I felt like a participant in the Amazing Race series. We had an entry pass and more constraints than instructions. We didn’t have cars ahead of us or behind us to tip toe or tail gate.  I sat at the wheel and Paul responsibly rolled up the windows and ensured the doors were locked.

 

A light drizzle and mild fog engulfed the park as I navigated the vehicle. Suddenly at a distance I noticed a huge moving object. Yes, it was an elephant ahead of us and I quickly reduced the speed. Would it be correct if I said the elephant was jaywalking in the middle of the road? In reality, we had intruded their space to enjoy their beauty and behavior.

While Paul kept reminding me the words of caution of the woman at the office, I reduced the speed respecting the animal and its might. Soaked in the beliefs of Hinduism, I believed the elephant’s appearance at the start of a trip as a blessing for obstacle-free journey. In excitement I referred to herd of elephants as a pride of elephants.

 

 

I was mistaken; it was not a single elephant, but a small herd with a young calf and an Allomother. As you may know the elephants are matriarchal. The females stay together as a herd and help ing other mother in the herd raise their calves. The young females who are not mature to become mothers play the role of “Allomothers” watching the calves and teaching them life skills. Isn’t this similar to the roles of aunts and uncles in a joint family set-up?

Mother elephants are very protective of their calves and can get aggressive if their safe space is trespassed. An oncoming van violated this rule and got too close to them thereby putting their lives at risk.

Coming from India where driving a car can be compared to playing a game on PS2. I grew a bit nervous after spotting animals on the road. I pulled over and waited till they made a decision on their route.

Paul and I had no idea what other animals we were going to encounter enroute to Skukuza. Hardly a few kilometers ahead I slammed the brake after seeing the king of the jungle in the middle of the road. Was it a kill, hit and run or was it just lazing? You can definitely assume that the slamming of brake was from respect more than fear.

We were violating the rule dictated by the women at the gate, but then our path was completely blocked. A male and female lion had left the bushes and taken to the tar road. Cars and safari vehicles surrounded them like paparazzi invading their privacy. Their body language clearly meant it was their space and we had to wait until then decided to vacate the spot. But some vehicles did get too close and intimidated them, but the couple stood their ground.

Later during a late night safari at Kruger, the ranger explained that a male lion and its female would typically honeymoon at various places in the forest before they copulate and start a family. In the video you can see the female taking a snooze and the male guarding her like a crown jewel. This honeymooning is considered a bonding ritual, where they are getting to know each other. Isn’t that very similar to what couples in love and newlyweds do?

The honeymoon couple ignored the taunts and gracefully posed to the paparazzi in the vehicles. We waited for over 15 minutes for the cars and jeeps around the lions to leave and drove by them. I told Paul they must be tired of paparazzi and posing for the photographs.

Spotting wildlife is like hitting a jackpot; you never know what you are going to get. Hardly a few more kilometers ahead we found a herd of zebras gracing in the bush. Zebra are social animals and belong to the horse family, but unfortunately humans have never domesticated them, but yet hunt them for their beautiful skin.

Nature has given them these beautiful stripes to confuse predators by motion dazzle – when they move in herds they appear as flickering stripes, making it more difficult for predators to hunt. Here is a question for you color obsessed world – are zebras white animals with black stripes or black animals with white stripes?

 

When chased, a zebra will zig-zag from side to side, making it more difficult for the predator to attack. When cornered, the zebra will rear up and kick or bite its attacker. They have excellent eyesight and it is believed that they can see in color. Apart from that they also have excellent hearing and can turn their ears in almost any direction. In addition to superb eyesight and hearing, zebras also have acute senses of smell and taste.

Later in the safari the ranger explained that female zebras mature earlier than the males, and a mare may have her first foal by the age of three. Males are not able to breed until the age of five or six. Nature has its reason to delay maturity in males. Don’t you agree?

Mares may give birth to one foal every twelve months, which she nurses up to a year. Like horses, zebras are able to stand, walk and suckle shortly after they are born. A zebra foal is brown and white instead of black and white at birth.

With my co-pilot having his eyes on the watch, we didn’t waste much time admiring Zebras despite their mesmerizing patterns. In the first 45mins of this ride we saw 3 of the Big 5 (elephant, lion, zebra, rhino and leopard) enroute to Skukuza.

The drizzle was constant and made more animals get closer to the road.  Suddenly we noticed two spotted hyenas run to the middle of the road and we slowed down. One of them picked up a can and ran back into the bushes. Hyenas live in packs and are one of the most social carnivores in the animal kingdom. We will see and learn more about them later.

At the end of this drive I was convinced what cows, goats and buffaloes (brake inspector) are to Indian roads, elephants, lions and other wildlife are to South Africa. Don’t you agree?

Paul and I barely made it as the doors of Skukuza camp closed behind us. And, my belief in the Elephant God removing our obstacles came true. That night as I rested in my bed, I replayed the big 3 from the evening. I thanked the lady at Wanderers Marriott who suggested us  to take the Melalane gate to Skukuza. How about the woman who gave a cold stare at Melalane gate and ignored my question on spotting animals on the trip? Let’s have a ranger answer this for you on my next blog.

This may have been a long read for you, but I hope it was worthwhile. This is just a glimpse of what is to come at Skukuza. Before you check back later this week for some great sightings prepare yourself by reading this blog on Jungle Safari 101.

 

 

 

 

Vacationing together in 4 continents

As much as vacations help you take a break from monotonous routine, it also gives you an opportunity to peek into lives of others, where you spot similarities, understand differences and appreciate life and marvel creation. At least that’s what I happened on my trip to South Africa.

Join me as I share my experiences from visiting the most endangered species at Kruger National Park, interacting with the locals from the Apartheid struggle at Johannesburg to enjoying in the lap of nature at Cape Town over the next few weeks. Life is full of surprises and I had no idea a hot white chocolate came with donut.

Visiting South Africa and specially Kruger National Park was on my bucket list for some time. With my friend Paul’s assignment in North West Africa soon coming to an end, we decided to seize the opportunity and plan to trip to the cradle of civilization and creation.

Over the last 7 years, Paul and I have traveled widely: in Asia we enjoyed the architecture and ruins at Hampi, in Maine we cycled along the breathtaking coastline at Acadia National Park, and in Netherlands, Paris and Brussels we partied like college kids. We’ve fuelled our life and friendship with wonderful memories!

When we finished the paper work and got to the mid-size Renault, Paul entrusted me with a responsibility of getting us to Skukuza camp at Kruger National Park. Probably this was the only discussion Paul and I didn’t have about the trip – who was going to drive to Kruger.

Nevertheless, it wasn’t a showstopper and driving in South Africa is very much akin to driving in India. Cars here were right hand driven and people drive on the left side of the road, which gave me a slight edge over Paul who was used to driving on the other side of the road on a left hand driven car. I didn’t know if I were allowed to make a free left turn at Robots, but I told Paul we will figure it out during our 500 kms ride to from Johannesburg to Kruger National Park.

Though traffic lights were fondly referred to as Robots otherwise the roadways in South Africa is comparable to that in the developed world. There is no honking, almost all of them obeyed traffic rules, and highways had multiple lanes and signage helping people to navigate their way without ambiguity.

The navigation software in the car was spot on - it accurately showed us exits, petrol stations and pit stops along the way. Though the scenery was beautiful sometimes the six-lane highway turned into two-lane with a small unpaved shoulder giving us some tight space to navigate was a bit scary. Nevertheless, South African drivers were accommodative and squeezed themselves into the shoulder and let us overtake them without any fuss or fret.

At 120kms/ hour getting to Skukuza wasn’t that long a journey. Moreover, Paul and I hadn’t met in two years and we had a lot to catch up. The second thing that scared us during the journey was hitch hikers on the freeway. We were ready to accommodate a few, but were afraid after hearing about the carjacking stories in South Africa. Though South Africa has a well developed road network their public transportation is pathetic. Private tempos ferried people within cities and between cities. This probably explained why there were so many hitch hikers along the freeway.

 

Kruger National Park has 8 entry gates and the lady at Wanderes Marriot @ Jburg suggested that we drive through Melalane gate and sunset drive through this gate to Skukuza camp was incredible. For the safety of animals and humans, these gates are closed to traffic from sunset to sunrise. We got there a little after 4pm and the gate wore deserted look and cloud cover engulfed the area in darkness making it look like it was past sun down.

Before we enter Kruger, let's learn a few facts about the place. At 200,000,0 hectares Kruger National Park is the size of Israel. The Kruger Park is approximately 360 kilometers long, 65 kilometers at its widest point, it is 90 kilometers from east to west. There is a network of some 1800 kilometers of well maintained roads and the Reserve has 21 rest camps. It his home to 336 trees, 49 fishes, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammal species.

Source: https://homesofafrica.com/krugerpark/facts/ 

Were we allowed to drive through or were we asked to stay back in a nearby motel that night? Come back tomorrow.

Weekend at Anejhari Camp

Elizabeth Gilbert did a trip to India, Italy and Indonesia (3Is) to get over her disappointments and heal her emotional wounds. She later published a memoir which became a best seller and was also adapted into a motion picture which too turned out to be a blockbuster. Not sure if you are hurt or nursing an aspiration to write a best seller or making a blockbuster, but if you are looking for a place to Rest, Relax and Rejuvenate (3Rs) I have a recommendation for you.

Anejhari Butterfly Camp situated 5kms before Kollur, Karnataka is a wonderful place to unwind, bask in the beauty of nature and relax in the company of feathered friends. But before my friend booked this place, we were in two-minds if we should believe the glowing reviews on TripAdvisor. All the 6 reviews were positive making us suspicious about the property and delaying our decision. With just a week left for our trip and my friend went ahead with the booking as our stay was only for 24 hours. Moreover, we set our expectations low to kill the butterflies in our stomach.

 

Surprises are two-way

A kilometer long dirt road to the camp was a harbinger for what was to come. We were welcomed by the property manager Rajnikanth and his staff and escorted to the dormitory which had 10 single beds reminding us of our hostel days. But that day it was just the two of us in that large room. Beds were covered with spotless white sheets and an olive green bath towel with a cake of soap was placed on each of them. The shared baths and toilets were equally spotless and smelling fresh. A Government of Karnataka property scoring a homerun where big hotel chains fail to impress their guest was a positive surprise!

As we unpacked and plugged our mobile phones into the power sockets, we realized surprises are two-way. Rajnikanth told us that the property was eco friendly and only harnessed solar energy to power the property. He said he was happy to operate the generator for an hour if we needed power. A closer look at the mobile also revealed that there was no service. My friend and I happily left behind our mobile phones and went on to enjoy the beauty outside the dormitory. Like a child taking to swing, we both rested on the hammock admiring the tall trees, blue skies and enjoying the loud bird calls announcing our arrival to the inmates of the jungle. How about experiencing the beauty of the forest?

 

The beauty of Souparnika

After a bit we got off the hammock and followed the paved path exploring the property. A set of comfortable chairs under a canopy along the river invited us to go down a flight of stairs. As we got closer we realized the pristine beauty of the river. It was devoid of plastic and filth and was brimming with aquatic life surrounded by the tall green cover perched by feathered friends offered much needed rest to our noisy mind.

The noon sun put a spotlight on the flora and fauna inviting not just us, but also some feathered friends. Fishes were happily taking their noon swim as a community and the hungry hornbills and kingfishers perched on the branches waiting for their lunch. Across from us sat a half-broken tree with deep and strong roots resembling tentacles of a hungry octopus. The roots were gulping nutrients from the river believed to have medicinal properties. Is this all real or just my imagination?

Experiencing Zen moment

Even with sun reaching the noon sky it was difficult for it to penetrate the thick foliage. As a result we didn’t have to take out our sun glasses or smear ourselves with sunscreen. And those rays that made it through the dense forest cover put spotlight on leaves turning them into a piece of art framed by the branches and roots. Even without closing my eyes I felt in a meditative zone.

 

Nature was clearly hypnotizing the two of us. We turned reticent, ignored each other’s presence, and were absorbed in the serene and inspiring nature. We even failed to register our hunger pangs and the waft emanating from the kitchen failed to awake our sense of smell. Should we call this Zen moment?
 

Mercury was slowly getting past 30 deg C, but the gentle breeze brushing against the cool water and lush foliage made it feel much cooler. Shortly, the kitchen staff invited us to an impressive (read as basic) lunch spread comprising of phulkas, rice, sambar, Anejhari special rasam, curd, small mango pickle and desert (payasam).

In the wild

Soon after lunch we again descended on the banks of the river being possessed by the beauty of Souparnika river and Anejari forest. Seeing our admiration for nature the camp staff offered to take us on a trek into the woods. Without a second thought we both jumped on the offer and got ready to explore the wilderness and the inhabitants.

As it was middle of summer the forest floor was littered with leaves and with every step came the rustling noise that made the birds and beetles restless and anxious. I was worried about snakes, particularly Kraits and King Cobras. But then I shed my fear and followed the footsteps of our guide who was swift as an arrow. At times he slowed down to show us the other mountain ranges in the area and also educated us on the rare species in the forest.

Rare sightings

I froze when he showed me Draco dussumieri or southern flying lizard. This lizard is indigenous to the Western Ghats and is capable of gliding from tree to tree. The loose skin on the sides of the body which are supported by elongated ribs to act as wings. Here is a picture that I was able to capture while it rested on the bark of the tree and camouflaging its skin to match with the bark.
 

As were reached the mid-point of our trek the guide pointed at the impressive peak – Kodachadri Hills situated at a distance of 20 kms from our camp. At an elevation of 1,343 metres above sea level, Kodachadri is the 10th highest peak of Karnataka.
 

With sun quickly going down, we doubled our speed not wishing to be trapped in the forest. Spotting a pair of black squirrels high up on the tree our guide asked us to standby and stay silent. In a few minutes we watched the squirrels glide from tree to tree. Do squirrels have aerodynamic body to fly or was it an illusion?  

 

Malabar Flying squirrels have a furry, parachute-like membrane stretching from its wrist to ankle that helps them glide between trees explained our guide. He also said it was rare to spot them in this forest at this time of the day.

 

Return of the surprise

It was almost 6.30 pm when we returned to the dormitory. Soaked in sweat from our trek we rested for a bit discussing the sightings, but then the guide asked us to hurry up with our shower and head to the dining room for dinner. After a cold shower we returned to the dining room for another simple meal served with love and warmth.

With night fall returned the buzz of beetles and crickets. As we returned to the dormitory we realized the second surprise - we had to sleep without a fan that night. Yes, none of the fans were connected to the solar powered batteries and I wasn’t sure if I would be able to fall asleep. I tried my luck with the manager seeking a hand fan (palm leaf), but his response was disappointing. He convinced us by saying that the forest gets cold at night and we would not need a fan. Like a child believing in Santa Claus, I trusted the man and went back to the dorm. When I woke up the following morning, I realized sleeping without a fan wasn’t difficult at all though I found my t-shirt was a bit wet from the sweat, but otherwise I had a restful night.

Just as I got ready to leave the camp after a sumptuous breakfast, I invited the staff and thanked them for their hospitality. I promised them that I will write about this place and will request travelers to be sensitive towards nature and creatures in wild.

 

Nature can be Prozac to urbanites; it can cure disappointments, heal emotional wounds and even cure a writer’s block. If only Elizabeth Gilbert had visited Anejhari Butterfly Camp she would have healed faster and saved herself from traveling to Italy and Indonesia. Nevertheless, you can pack your bags, leave behind your stress and mobile phones and conquer your fears by living in the forest and sleeping without a fan.  

Tips to plan your trip: 

Book your stay: Visit www.junglelodges.com and look for Anejhari Butterfly Camp under Camps. 

 

Best time to travel: September to December 

Getting there: It is takes 4 hours to get here by bus from Mangalore. Take a Volvo AC bus ride to Udipi and then jump on a regular private bus going towards Kollur. Anejhari Camp is 4 kms before Kollur bus station. Upon reaching the bust station take an auto ride for Rs 100 to reach the camp.

 

Accomodation: Independent tents are also available apart from dormitory accommodation. Call up the property manager for more information.

Auto Drivers: Santosh – 09535504632and   Muttiah – 09482061841 are reachable (from landline phones available at the property) and will charge you 200Rs for a ride back and forth to the Mookambika temple.

PS: Please be respectful of nature and wildlife in the forest. Stay silent and don’t bring plastics with you.

My encounter with United Airlines

What happened Dr. David Dao on United Airlines (UA) flight 3411 from Chicago to Louisville last week almost happened to me on UA flight 5292 from Colorado Springs to Chicago on March 31.

That morning there was thick fog and poor visibility as I left Radisson at 7 am. Though I had received a weather advisory from United two days ago regarding possible flight delays, but I was confident  today's poor visibility and mild drizzle shouldn't affect the flight departure.

When I reached the gate I noticed the earlier flight to Chicago operated by UA was cancelled and many passengers had queued up to get themselves rebooked. Will it be another overbooked flight and should I get prepared to the ground staff make an announcement asking travelers to offer their seats and get compensated to travel on a later flight?

Just as I waited for the same fateful announcement that made UA and Mr. Dao bloody,  I happen to notice the pilot and co-pilot circling around CRJ 200 like a bird of prey. This was the first time I've ever seen a flying crew inspect an aircraft before a journey and it made me nervous. Is everything okay? What are they inspecting? Is there an issue with this aircraft too? Will it be grounded like the earlier one? Above all, will I be able reach Chicago to have a mini-reunion with my classmate who I haven't seen in the last 20 years?

Questions kept swirling in my mind like mud storm in a desert and anxious passengers also kept swirling around the gate. Shortly an announcement from the ground staff temporarily ended the swirl and dust. We were asked to queue up by zones to board the aircraft. Privilege card holders, kids and elderly were given the right of passage and then people in Zone 1 and 2 were asked to boarded the aircraft. Being a young solo traveler I belong to none of the categories.

While waiting for them to call for Zone 3 I received a text from my classmate in Chicago asking what I fancied for lunch. Honestly, cuisines didn't matter when I was hungry for a meeting and a conversation. I texted him back anything vegetarian was okay and that I should be boarding in the next minute. Did my words get ahead of my action?

Finally, I boarded the aircraft and took the assigned window seat, put my seat belt on and mumbled the prayer I always did before a take-off. Soon, the hostess came by to speak to the passengers seated behind me on the emergency exit asking them for their consent and confirming their ability to participate in case of an evacuation procedure. After getting their consent and ensuring all passengers were on board she closed the flight door and demoed the usual safety procedure as the aircraft pulled out of the gate.

Before I shut off my phone, I texted my buddy in Chicago one last time informing him of the departure. But then my excitement came to an abrupt halt along with the aircraft as we moved towards the gate again. Did the dust storm return?

The aircraft door was reopened and the ground staff came in to have a quick chat with the two pilots. He then announced that there was an issue with the pressure release valve and asked 4 passengers to come forward to travel on a later flight. There was pin drop silence in the cabin as passengers curiously looked at each other with a hope someone would volunteer. I've been flying for the last 30 years and have never heard such an announcement made in an aircraft. I looked through the window and began to read between the lines as to how removing 4 passengers can make the safety valve function.

Seeing no one come forward, the ground staff upped the travel voucher compensation from 300 USD to 400 USD. He again announced in a threatening way that if people didn't volunteer he would choose them randomly. Is forced eviction and coercion legally tenable? Is random pick a substitute for racial profiling and discrimination?

Even after the voucher value went up, none of the passengers budged from their seat. They stopped looking at each other with a hope of someone coming forward. I kept answering questions what if I get picked by the ground staff to leave the aircraft as I was traveling? What if I take a later flight and stay overnight in Chicago with my classmate and fly out the following morning?

30 minutes had elapsed as the tug-of-war between the staff and passengers continued. The ground staff again came on the aircraft upping the voucher value to 500 USD. I got impatient with both wait and haggle. I unbuckled my seat belt and volunteered as the rest of the passengers watched me walk like a hero. I quickly picked up my jacket and backpack and disembarked the aircraft.

I noticed I was the only Asian and brown skin on the flight. As I exited the aircraft the flight attendant, an African American asked me if I were Persian and flirted with me saying that I looked like her best friend from Persia. I smirked and asked her if she meant like a Persian cat. Then I proudly said I was from India and I was often mistaken to be a Persian by the ignorant West.

10 days later when I read the treatment meted out by UA crew to Mr. Dao I froze. I patted my back for making the decision to go on the next flight. Had I decided to stay back, I would have experienced the same fate as passenger on UA 3411. When I look at the video on top what appalls me is people filming with their mobile cameras as though this is some entertainment. Should we call this American sensitivity or boorishness?

We live in interesting times (Read as Donald Trump). If you are an Indian traveling in US please consider wearing a jacket that screams I'm an Indian so that you can save yourself from being target of hate crimes and racial profiling. Also, come forward to offer your seats and walk out like a hero than being dragged on the floor like a criminal.