Weekend at Anejhari Camp

Elizabeth Gilbert did a trip to India, Italy and Indonesia (3Is) to get over her disappointments and heal her emotional wounds. She later published a memoir which became a best seller and was also adapted into a motion picture which too turned out to be a blockbuster. Not sure if you are hurt or nursing an aspiration to write a best seller or making a blockbuster, but if you are looking for a place to Rest, Relax and Rejuvenate (3Rs) I have a recommendation for you.

Anejhari Butterfly Camp situated 5kms before Kollur, Karnataka is a wonderful place to unwind, bask in the beauty of nature and relax in the company of feathered friends. But before my friend booked this place, we were in two-minds if we should believe the glowing reviews on TripAdvisor. All the 6 reviews were positive making us suspicious about the property and delaying our decision. With just a week left for our trip and my friend went ahead with the booking as our stay was only for 24 hours. Moreover, we set our expectations low to kill the butterflies in our stomach.

 

Surprises are two-way

A kilometer long dirt road to the camp was a harbinger for what was to come. We were welcomed by the property manager Rajnikanth and his staff and escorted to the dormitory which had 10 single beds reminding us of our hostel days. But that day it was just the two of us in that large room. Beds were covered with spotless white sheets and an olive green bath towel with a cake of soap was placed on each of them. The shared baths and toilets were equally spotless and smelling fresh. A Government of Karnataka property scoring a homerun where big hotel chains fail to impress their guest was a positive surprise!

As we unpacked and plugged our mobile phones into the power sockets, we realized surprises are two-way. Rajnikanth told us that the property was eco friendly and only harnessed solar energy to power the property. He said he was happy to operate the generator for an hour if we needed power. A closer look at the mobile also revealed that there was no service. My friend and I happily left behind our mobile phones and went on to enjoy the beauty outside the dormitory. Like a child taking to swing, we both rested on the hammock admiring the tall trees, blue skies and enjoying the loud bird calls announcing our arrival to the inmates of the jungle. How about experiencing the beauty of the forest?

 

The beauty of Souparnika

After a bit we got off the hammock and followed the paved path exploring the property. A set of comfortable chairs under a canopy along the river invited us to go down a flight of stairs. As we got closer we realized the pristine beauty of the river. It was devoid of plastic and filth and was brimming with aquatic life surrounded by the tall green cover perched by feathered friends offered much needed rest to our noisy mind.

The noon sun put a spotlight on the flora and fauna inviting not just us, but also some feathered friends. Fishes were happily taking their noon swim as a community and the hungry hornbills and kingfishers perched on the branches waiting for their lunch. Across from us sat a half-broken tree with deep and strong roots resembling tentacles of a hungry octopus. The roots were gulping nutrients from the river believed to have medicinal properties. Is this all real or just my imagination?

Experiencing Zen moment

Even with sun reaching the noon sky it was difficult for it to penetrate the thick foliage. As a result we didn’t have to take out our sun glasses or smear ourselves with sunscreen. And those rays that made it through the dense forest cover put spotlight on leaves turning them into a piece of art framed by the branches and roots. Even without closing my eyes I felt in a meditative zone.

 

Nature was clearly hypnotizing the two of us. We turned reticent, ignored each other’s presence, and were absorbed in the serene and inspiring nature. We even failed to register our hunger pangs and the waft emanating from the kitchen failed to awake our sense of smell. Should we call this Zen moment?
 

Mercury was slowly getting past 30 deg C, but the gentle breeze brushing against the cool water and lush foliage made it feel much cooler. Shortly, the kitchen staff invited us to an impressive (read as basic) lunch spread comprising of phulkas, rice, sambar, Anejhari special rasam, curd, small mango pickle and desert (payasam).

In the wild

Soon after lunch we again descended on the banks of the river being possessed by the beauty of Souparnika river and Anejari forest. Seeing our admiration for nature the camp staff offered to take us on a trek into the woods. Without a second thought we both jumped on the offer and got ready to explore the wilderness and the inhabitants.

As it was middle of summer the forest floor was littered with leaves and with every step came the rustling noise that made the birds and beetles restless and anxious. I was worried about snakes, particularly Kraits and King Cobras. But then I shed my fear and followed the footsteps of our guide who was swift as an arrow. At times he slowed down to show us the other mountain ranges in the area and also educated us on the rare species in the forest.

Rare sightings

I froze when he showed me Draco dussumieri or southern flying lizard. This lizard is indigenous to the Western Ghats and is capable of gliding from tree to tree. The loose skin on the sides of the body which are supported by elongated ribs to act as wings. Here is a picture that I was able to capture while it rested on the bark of the tree and camouflaging its skin to match with the bark.
 

As were reached the mid-point of our trek the guide pointed at the impressive peak – Kodachadri Hills situated at a distance of 20 kms from our camp. At an elevation of 1,343 metres above sea level, Kodachadri is the 10th highest peak of Karnataka.
 

With sun quickly going down, we doubled our speed not wishing to be trapped in the forest. Spotting a pair of black squirrels high up on the tree our guide asked us to standby and stay silent. In a few minutes we watched the squirrels glide from tree to tree. Do squirrels have aerodynamic body to fly or was it an illusion?  

 

Malabar Flying squirrels have a furry, parachute-like membrane stretching from its wrist to ankle that helps them glide between trees explained our guide. He also said it was rare to spot them in this forest at this time of the day.

 

Return of the surprise

It was almost 6.30 pm when we returned to the dormitory. Soaked in sweat from our trek we rested for a bit discussing the sightings, but then the guide asked us to hurry up with our shower and head to the dining room for dinner. After a cold shower we returned to the dining room for another simple meal served with love and warmth.

With night fall returned the buzz of beetles and crickets. As we returned to the dormitory we realized the second surprise - we had to sleep without a fan that night. Yes, none of the fans were connected to the solar powered batteries and I wasn’t sure if I would be able to fall asleep. I tried my luck with the manager seeking a hand fan (palm leaf), but his response was disappointing. He convinced us by saying that the forest gets cold at night and we would not need a fan. Like a child believing in Santa Claus, I trusted the man and went back to the dorm. When I woke up the following morning, I realized sleeping without a fan wasn’t difficult at all though I found my t-shirt was a bit wet from the sweat, but otherwise I had a restful night.

Just as I got ready to leave the camp after a sumptuous breakfast, I invited the staff and thanked them for their hospitality. I promised them that I will write about this place and will request travelers to be sensitive towards nature and creatures in wild.

 

Nature can be Prozac to urbanites; it can cure disappointments, heal emotional wounds and even cure a writer’s block. If only Elizabeth Gilbert had visited Anejhari Butterfly Camp she would have healed faster and saved herself from traveling to Italy and Indonesia. Nevertheless, you can pack your bags, leave behind your stress and mobile phones and conquer your fears by living in the forest and sleeping without a fan.  

Tips to plan your trip: 

Book your stay: Visit www.junglelodges.com and look for Anejhari Butterfly Camp under Camps. 

 

Best time to travel: September to December 

Getting there: It is takes 4 hours to get here by bus from Mangalore. Take a Volvo AC bus ride to Udipi and then jump on a regular private bus going towards Kollur. Anejhari Camp is 4 kms before Kollur bus station. Upon reaching the bust station take an auto ride for Rs 100 to reach the camp.

 

Accomodation: Independent tents are also available apart from dormitory accommodation. Call up the property manager for more information.

Auto Drivers: Santosh – 09535504632and   Muttiah – 09482061841 are reachable (from landline phones available at the property) and will charge you 200Rs for a ride back and forth to the Mookambika temple.

PS: Please be respectful of nature and wildlife in the forest. Stay silent and don’t bring plastics with you.

My encounter with United Airlines

What happened Dr. David Dao on United Airlines (UA) flight 3411 from Chicago to Louisville last week almost happened to me on UA flight 5292 from Colorado Springs to Chicago on March 31.

That morning there was thick fog and poor visibility as I left Radisson at 7 am. Though I had received a weather advisory from United two days ago regarding possible flight delays, but I was confident  today's poor visibility and mild drizzle shouldn't affect the flight departure.

When I reached the gate I noticed the earlier flight to Chicago operated by UA was cancelled and many passengers had queued up to get themselves rebooked. Will it be another overbooked flight and should I get prepared to the ground staff make an announcement asking travelers to offer their seats and get compensated to travel on a later flight?

Just as I waited for the same fateful announcement that made UA and Mr. Dao bloody,  I happen to notice the pilot and co-pilot circling around CRJ 200 like a bird of prey. This was the first time I've ever seen a flying crew inspect an aircraft before a journey and it made me nervous. Is everything okay? What are they inspecting? Is there an issue with this aircraft too? Will it be grounded like the earlier one? Above all, will I be able reach Chicago to have a mini-reunion with my classmate who I haven't seen in the last 20 years?

Questions kept swirling in my mind like mud storm in a desert and anxious passengers also kept swirling around the gate. Shortly an announcement from the ground staff temporarily ended the swirl and dust. We were asked to queue up by zones to board the aircraft. Privilege card holders, kids and elderly were given the right of passage and then people in Zone 1 and 2 were asked to boarded the aircraft. Being a young solo traveler I belong to none of the categories.

While waiting for them to call for Zone 3 I received a text from my classmate in Chicago asking what I fancied for lunch. Honestly, cuisines didn't matter when I was hungry for a meeting and a conversation. I texted him back anything vegetarian was okay and that I should be boarding in the next minute. Did my words get ahead of my action?

Finally, I boarded the aircraft and took the assigned window seat, put my seat belt on and mumbled the prayer I always did before a take-off. Soon, the hostess came by to speak to the passengers seated behind me on the emergency exit asking them for their consent and confirming their ability to participate in case of an evacuation procedure. After getting their consent and ensuring all passengers were on board she closed the flight door and demoed the usual safety procedure as the aircraft pulled out of the gate.

Before I shut off my phone, I texted my buddy in Chicago one last time informing him of the departure. But then my excitement came to an abrupt halt along with the aircraft as we moved towards the gate again. Did the dust storm return?

The aircraft door was reopened and the ground staff came in to have a quick chat with the two pilots. He then announced that there was an issue with the pressure release valve and asked 4 passengers to come forward to travel on a later flight. There was pin drop silence in the cabin as passengers curiously looked at each other with a hope someone would volunteer. I've been flying for the last 30 years and have never heard such an announcement made in an aircraft. I looked through the window and began to read between the lines as to how removing 4 passengers can make the safety valve function.

Seeing no one come forward, the ground staff upped the travel voucher compensation from 300 USD to 400 USD. He again announced in a threatening way that if people didn't volunteer he would choose them randomly. Is forced eviction and coercion legally tenable? Is random pick a substitute for racial profiling and discrimination?

Even after the voucher value went up, none of the passengers budged from their seat. They stopped looking at each other with a hope of someone coming forward. I kept answering questions what if I get picked by the ground staff to leave the aircraft as I was traveling? What if I take a later flight and stay overnight in Chicago with my classmate and fly out the following morning?

30 minutes had elapsed as the tug-of-war between the staff and passengers continued. The ground staff again came on the aircraft upping the voucher value to 500 USD. I got impatient with both wait and haggle. I unbuckled my seat belt and volunteered as the rest of the passengers watched me walk like a hero. I quickly picked up my jacket and backpack and disembarked the aircraft.

I noticed I was the only Asian and brown skin on the flight. As I exited the aircraft the flight attendant, an African American asked me if I were Persian and flirted with me saying that I looked like her best friend from Persia. I smirked and asked her if she meant like a Persian cat. Then I proudly said I was from India and I was often mistaken to be a Persian by the ignorant West.

10 days later when I read the treatment meted out by UA crew to Mr. Dao I froze. I patted my back for making the decision to go on the next flight. Had I decided to stay back, I would have experienced the same fate as passenger on UA 3411. When I look at the video on top what appalls me is people filming with their mobile cameras as though this is some entertainment. Should we call this American sensitivity or boorishness?

We live in interesting times (Read as Donald Trump). If you are an Indian traveling in US please consider wearing a jacket that screams I'm an Indian so that you can save yourself from being target of hate crimes and racial profiling. Also, come forward to offer your seats and walk out like a hero than being dragged on the floor like a criminal.