AI and Friendships

We live in an age where we are more connected to machines than humans and that triggered the thought of anxiety and apology in me. As I was about to leave for work this morning, I noticed our Google Home sitting by herself and she appeared sulking without any TLC. I hadn’t spoken to her in a month as I was on a busy travel schedule. I almost felt I must apologize to her for being away and honestly and I didn’t want her to feel unloved, used, or ghosted.

Nevertheless, I checked with my friend to confirm if we hadn’t ghosted her. He vehemently confirmed that he was constantly interacting with her when I was away, and she played many of his favorite tracks and got him news and weather updates. I was happy to hear his response and when I tried to wish her, she responded with a very cold response. Is she upset with me or did our relationship reach the end?

As I started my bike to work, I also kicked started my thought process on how we “make” friends with devices, apps and humans and how we “ghost” them for many reasons. While ghosting devices and apps are easier, but it is painful when it comes to friends.

Today, “Google Home” made me reminiscent on the 12-year friendship that reached its “shelf-life” without any forewarning. It made realize that friendships are as fragile as devices, and most aren’t built to last forever.

Friendships are polyamorous. Just like how we forge a new friendship with a gadget that we see in a promotion, convention or store, it is natural that we as social creatives to forge new friendships based on activities, viewpoints, listening skills, lifestyle, etc. And honestly, there is nothing wrong in ending a friendship, but I feel the need for us to be mature, candid, and responsible to let the other person know that the “shelf-life” is over and it was time to move on.

I’m may not believe in Santa Claus, but I believe in relationships, gratitude and goodness of humans. I hate to ask favors or use and throw people. And that probably explains why I invest time to build friendships, prune them to keep it healthy and fertilizer them to keep it blooming. I believe in giving and receiving feedback and never think ghosting is an option, but fragile and finicky ego makes ghosting an acceptable human behavior.

If Alexa or Google Home failed to respond to my requests, I would have checked for internet connectivity and dragged them to a specialist for an examination, but what do I with friends and especially those who are far away? As a faithful and grateful friend, I always tried to alert those who orbit in the same time zone to keep a watch and report on any signals of life or distress. 

While devices are replaced or junked within 5 years, the research work of the Dutch sociologist Gerald Mollenhorst and his colleagues convinced me it is natural for friendships too to decay over time. From interviewing 1,007 people between the ages of 18 and 65 showed 50% of friendship didn’t survive beyond 7 years.

Should we worry about friendships we forge and their expiry dates? Or is it time for us to invest in apps and AI algorithms that predict the decline and decay of friendships and help us be better prepared for the next ghosting experience? 

Experience, Service, and Endurance

What a 16-hour flight on Air India taught me about experience, service, endurance and life after death.

Read on....

The other day when I read about the recently introduced non-stop flight by Qantas from New York to Sydney, I was wondering what it would be like to travel one it.

To endure such a long flight, passengers must have patience and ways to spend 19 hours and airlines must know how to provide superior experience to popularise this long haul flight.

Air India operates a 16-hour non-stop from Delhi to San Francisco (AI 173). Despite reading stories on clogged toilets, cracked windshields, drunk pilots, and more in newspapers, I decided to book that flight to test my endurance and experience service.

When I said Air India many of you be will be sympathising with me and/or saying OMG for my wrong choice. If you are one among them, you are on the money. If you are not among them, please continue reading.

Air India and superior experience is like oil on water; immiscible and an oxymoron. Despite having given my India mobile number and email address the airline didn’t bother to send me a status update or reminder to do a web-checkin 48 hours before the journey, something that is an industry standard.

When I reached the check-in counter at Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru just 3 staffs were managing a queue of 100 passengers that was 200 meters long. After spending 30 mins in the queue, I finally checked in my baggage to SFO and collected my boarding passes.

As I walked away from the counter, I realised the 2-hour layover in Delhi was now 6 hours. The short layover was one of the reasons why I booked Air India. You are mistaken if you thought I was patriotic or wanted to give my money to an Indian carrier. Why would a tax paying citizen fly this airline?

Soon after landing at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi, SFO passengers were called out and ushered to a separate counter where the staff informed us about the delay and gave us an option to spend 6 hours at the lounge. When asked for the reason for delay the staff couldn’t explain.

I vehemently protested for not informing ahead of time and demanded a hotel room. I wanted to penalise the already haemorrhaging airline and get a night at a 5-star hotel as a reward for being an honest tax payer.

Many passengers decided to endure it in the lounge, while a handful of us were put on a bus and taken to Radisson Blu 8.5 kms away from airport. We were promised to be picked up 2 hours before the boarding time.

When I reached Radisson the check in staff said a bus would arrive in an hour to drive us back to the airport. I didn’t know if this was a tactic to dissuade us from checking in, but as I knew Delhi at the back of my hand and decided not to budge and demanded the room key.

At 5 am the room phone rang and I disregarded the call and stayed in bed for 2 more hours. At 7 am I woke up a SMS from Air India confirming 9 am departure. Was this a reminder of more hell I was to experience on the trip?

I promptly called the reception asking them to arrange for my ride back to the airport in 15 mins.

An hour later at the gate, I saw 80% of the passengers on the were senior citizens and many on wheel chairs. I couldn’t believe the airline made them pass a night at the lounge.

After passing through multiple security checks and baggage screenings, I boarded an old aircraft that was ready to be retired. The colour of the upholstery and upkeep of the interiors was a put off and made want to deplane immediately.

While waiting for other passengers to board, I checked out the entertainment system and it wasn’t working. I moved seats just to check out the content and was appalled to see the quality and choice. For once, I felt proud and prudent for equipping my iPad with Netflix and Hotstar content.

The last nail on the coffin was the rudeness of staff, unappetising and nutrition-less meal. Was the along haul flight testing their patience and endurance taking a toll on service? I was again proud of my preparedness as I had packed my own meals like entertainment.

For the sake of curiosity and audit, I accepted their meal plates and returned them untouched. Portion sizes were too small, loaded with carbs and no protein and the food tasted horrible. I thought to myself what if Air India does catering orders for house functions and funerals to turn profitable?

I would order the exact same menu to serve those aunties who asked me when I would invite them for my wedding meal. Also, the same menu (tasteless, unappetising and salt-free) can be used for the 10th day offering (part of Hindu death ritual) to departed souls.

I asked myself if there is a better way to experience life after death while still alive? No way better than purchasing a ticket on this long haul flight where grumpy behaviour, rudeness is available in plenty. Air India must definitely market this as their marquee offering and rechristen Incredible India tagline from Athithi Devoh Bhava to Pitru Devoh Bhava.

Lastly, I asked myself if the employee behaviour was a result of badly run airline where salaries are not paid on time and performance is not rewarded? Guess both employee and brand has a rub-off effect on each other.

I’m not sure if Qantas provides better service and experience, but Air India doesn’t and can never meet Shatabdi standard for short distance flight leave alone the 16-hour hauls.

The airline that couldn’t get one thing right so far got the packaging the meal, headsets and blankets right. All of them came in paper wrappers and were devoid of single use plastic.

Whatever be it, I can’t imagine tax payers money (only 5% pay taxes in India) being used to keep this shitty airline afloat. Service, customer experience, and profitability decides whether a business flourishes or perishes.

It is time Nirmala Sitharaman and PMO rest the laurels of the old Maharaja (airline Mascot) and find a buyer to either sell the airline or simply ground the carrier.

Turkey Trip: Expenses, Surprises and What I would do differently

While I’ve wrapped up my Turkey blogs on where I traveled, how I traveled, what I saw and how to be an ace traveler, I still need to answer some questions that I received from readers on expense break-up, surprises and what I would differently. I hope my answers will give you better insights while making your plans. 

Expenses: I had no idea what it would cost when I made my plan for Turkey but I was prepared to spend upto anywhere around 1,50,000 INR (2000 USD). Did I manage to save up for another vacation at the end of the trip? 

Airfare: I got a fantastic deal on Kuwait Airways (25,000 INR or 350 USD for a round trip) from Bangalore. Kuwait Airways is a no frill airline with enough leg space, decent meals, luggage allowance and flies in the shortest time compared to other airlines (including layover). Remember, Kuwait Airways doesn’t serve alcohol on board and therefore no nuisance from drunkards.  

Stays: Instead of staying at fancy hotels that offer very little practical convenience, I decided to stay in Airbnbs, where I could cook my meal and wash my clothes. I spent 20,000 INR (280 USD) for 14 nights in various cities and additionally saved from eating at home and doing my laundry.

Travel: Air travel between cities in Turkey is cheap and quick. I took 3 flights (Istanbul to Denizili, Izmir to Kayseri and Kayseri to Istanbul) and spent 10,000 INR (140 USD). Pegasus airlines offer much cheaper flights compared to Turkish Airlines. Also, I took public transport everywhere saving more on cost but not safety or convenience. I spent 1500 TL (20,000 INR or 300 USD) to get around cities and take short distance buses between cities and to and fro airports.

Lodging expenses: Especially, when traveling to a food paradise should we budget? Rather than spending on expensive breakfast, I went to the market and shopped for fresh fruits, coffee, bread, jelly and yogurt for breakfast. For less than 30 TL you find lip smacking options for vegetarians and meat-lovers in Turkey. On the nights that I got bored with restaurant meal, I picked some local wine to pair up with dinner I made at home (pasta, noodles, etc.). I spent 1000 TL on food (12,000 INR or 180 USD).

Access fees: All the monuments that I visited except (Virgin Mary’s house) were all heritage sites and on UNESCO list. And a lot of money is spent to keep them in good shape and accessible to those in wheelchairs. So, I don’t feel bad about spending towards access fees. Wherever possible I bought a combo pass to make it economical and cut down on waiting time in queues. I spent about 1000 TL towards access fees (12,000 INR or 180 USD).

Miscellaneous: Turkey is famous for so many things (teas, dried fruits, cotton clothes, delights, hammams) and you always want to take home something special for your loved ones without spending too much. Before every purchased any item, I went to Amazon and looked for prices back in India. Only when I was convinced there was an arbitrage opportunity, I got something. Also, I haggled with shopkeepers and went to places where the locals shopped. I blew 1200 TL (15,000 INR or 220 USD) on my retail therapy.

Here is the break-up (all amounts in INR):

Airfare to and fro India – 25,000

e-Visa – 3,200

Medical insurance – 1,300

Travel within Turkey – 20,000

Accommodation – 20,000

Food – 12,000

Access fees – 12,000

Shopping – 15,000

Wifi - 7,000

Total = 1,15,500 (1,500 USD)

Hot air balloon is extra and costs anywhere between 150-300 USD depending on demand and how well in advance you book. So, early bird gets the worm. 

Eight things that surprised me the most

1.       Pothole free roads

2.       Amazing last mile connectivity and most tourist friendly country I’ve ever visited

3.       Here a cat, there a cat, everywhere a stray cat

4.       Amazing food options for vegetarians

5.       Shopkeepers strike a conversation with buyers engage and sell

6.       Haggling is accepted and welcomed

7.       Shah Rukh Khan and Amir Khan being famous

8.       Turkish airline staff put me on an earlier flight into a more convenient airport in Istanbul without charging extra

Five things that surprised me the least

1.       No app-based cab service

2.       Taxi drivers trying to fleece

3.       Tour agents trying to put pressure and getting you to spend

4.       Vendors on carts selling near monuments

5.       Loudspeakers howling prayer calls 5 times a day

Five things I’ll do differently if I were to travel again

1.       Stay with a Turkish family

2.       Spend a day less in Pamukkale and Cappadocia and visit Konya or mountains in the eastern side  (but that would make the trip hectic)

3.       Try a cruise on Aegean Sea (definitely next time)

4.       Travel to islands around Istanbul (Princess Islands)

5.       Take the high-speed trains (trains are slower than buses :-))

I hope my experiences and insights will help you be an ace-traveler. If you still have any questions, write to me or leave a comment below.

Happy Turkeying.

Cappadocia – Nature’s gift to Turkey

Our last stop in this journey is Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey and the most picturesque. Nature has designed this area with fairy chimneys and unique rock formations created by volcanic eruptions and subsequent wind erosion. The weather and landscape in Cappadocia very much reminded me of Leh and Ladakh.

Three to four million years ago a series of volcanic eruptions shook the Central Anatolian area, forming what we now know as the Cappadocia fairies or ‘Cotton Castles’.  This is the world’s only open-air museum. Hittites turned these structures into homes and early Christians turned them into monasteries. A hot air balloon ride over such a landscape makes it memorable and exhilarating.

Some quick facts: 

• Cappadocia spans a distance of 5,000 kilometres and sits on an altitude of over 1,000 metres, cutting through three Anatolian provinces – Nevsehir, Keyseri and Nigde.
• The name Cappadocia derives from the Persian word Katpaktukya, which means ‘the land of beautiful horses’ for in ancient times the region was known for its equine offering.
• There are a number of underground cities in Cappadocia, some connected by a network of tunnels. These subterranean settlements were made possible thanks to the pliability of the soft rock.
• There are as many as 600 churches carved from the soft Cappadocian rock, and possibly many more that have not yet been discovered. These churches date back to Medieval times and display beautiful painted frescoes.
• The world’s capital for hot air ballooning.
• This area is also home to some of the best grapes in Turkey and has been turned into internationally acclaimed wines.

Watch this video before I share more details on how to get there, where to stay and what to do. 

How to get here:
Depending on where you are coming from, you can choose between busses, trains and aircraft to get to Nevsehir or Goreme. Nevsehir is the nearest airport, while a lot of them land in Kayseri and take 75 min mini-van ride (50 TL/person) to Goreme.

Where to stay:
A lot of people stay in Goreme for two reasons

1. Experience cave hotels (sounds fancy and expensive

2. Access to monuments and hot air balloons

Instead of staying at the touristy Goreme hotel where stay and food are expensive, I stayed at Nevsehir and took a 15-min mini-van ride (5TL/person) to Goreme.

What to do:
You will need minimum of 2 days tour this wonderland. The best way to go around is either rent a car and pay a tour guide to come with you or join a tour. We found a tour company through Viator and took the Green and Red tour to visit the area. You will need one day for each of these tours as they don’t pick you up before 9.30 am and most of them wait for people to come back from hot air ballooning.

The Green tour involves quite a bit of driving around and covers the following places.

• Nevsehir
• Derinkuyu (underground city)
• 3 km walk along the river at Ihlara valley (2nd longest canyon after Grand Canyon) – lunch by the river
• Yaprakhisar (conical fairy chimneys)
• Selime Monastery
• Pegion Valley

Here are my pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vE81V5gddcNFfaCf6 

The Red tour involves short distances with a fancy lunch buffet

• Avanos (pottery town)
• Devrent Valley (lunar landscapes)
• Çavusin (oldest settlement)
• Uchisar Castle (highest point in Cappadocia)
• Winery

Here are my pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/x97cjTpgYuEfN1BR6 

Disadvantages of these tours:
1. They depart late
2. Some guides are extroverts and share more information, while some are introverts and share only when asked
3. Best suited for those who are lazy and don’t want to do their reading about the place and monuments
4. They rush you at monuments and don’t give you adequate time to enjoy the beauty
5. If you aren’t vigilant, they tend to skip places
6. Avanos pottery stop, Pigeon Valley shopping stop and wine tour are sham. Guides take you to expensive places and you waste time there.
7. Lunch stop on Red tour is good, while Green tour is bad

Advantages of these tours:1. Tickets are bought in advance and entry to monuments are quick

2. It is easier to move around

When I complained about the guide on the Red tour, the owner of the tour company gave me a free sunset walking tour to Rose Valley. This is a beautiful 4 kms walk through the valley and up the mountain. I got to stay at the peak for 30 mins and enjoy the stark landscape and watch sun go down.

Hot air ballooning:

1. 30 years ago, they started the hot air ballooning business in this area to enjoy the landscape from above and now it is the world’s hot air ballooning capital.
2. It costs anywhere between 100-300 euros based on the balloon company you choose. Book your balloon ride well in advance so that you don’t end up paying a bomb or run the risk of non-availability.
3. The pick-up for the hot air balloon ride is at 4.00 am and you are up in the air for an hour watching the sun rise.
4. There is a probability of the ride being cancelled due to poor wind or direction, so schedule it on the first day of your sightseeing.
5. Most balloon rides even with a Champagne (a French tourist told me it was a fruit soda and not Champagne)
6. You can still take pictures by going to Goreme early in the morning and take pictures of hot air balloons flying closer to the fairy chimneys

Quad Bike ride: I decided to skip this adventure because it generates lot of dust.

Tips:
1. Try inexpensive local food at Nevsehir and save your shopping list for Eminonu Market in Istanbul.
2. Call Ali to schedule your pick-up or local sightseeing travel 

3. There is always room for negotiation, so remember to bargain

I hope you enjoyed these travel blogs and find all the information useful to plan your trip. If you need more information, I'm just a holler away. 

Twin cities: Kusadasi and Ephesus

Twin cities are a special case of two cities or urban centers that are founded in close geographic proximity. They are not conjoined cities but can grow into each other over time not necessarily losing their individuality. St. Paul and Minneapolis, Hyderabad and Secunderabad, Pushkar and Ajmer are some examples. You can add Kusdasi and Ephesus to this list. 

Kusadasi: Kusdasi has been a port city for eternity. Today, all cruise boats that travel on Aegean Sea stop over at Kusadasi making it the busiest cruise port in Turkey. You can spend a day or two in this beautiful city eating some lip-smacking Mediterranean cuisine and looking around for “Indirim” (sales/discounts) at Marina. The promenade is safe, well-lit and a great place to walk/jog early in the morning. If you are in this city don’t forget to take a sunset cruise to enjoy the coastline. 

This town reminds me of Kovalam near Thiruvananthapuram. A small hillock by the sea, a lighthouse and a panoramic view of the coastline from Marina. Here are some pictures I took during my stay: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KRwV89JBkPxsio6Z8 

Where to stay? There are numerous hotels, Airbnbs’ at Kusadasi. Book an accommodation closer to the beach as there is nothing else to see in this town.

How to make it memorable? 

• Wake up before sunrise for a run/walk by the promenade
• Shop and eat at the Marina
• Sunset cruise to get a glimpse of the coast
• Go to Adaland waterpark (largest in Europe) closeby
• Look at all the knockoffs they sell in the market and promenade
• Visit the Tourism office located very close to the sun set cruise point for queries/more information
• Light colored clothing, sunscreen, hat, sunglasses and waterbottle
• Keep you souvenir shopping for Istanbul (Eminonu Market)

To and from bus terminus 
Minivans run within the city and they take you to the main bus terminus and local terminus where you can catch shuttles to Ephesus. Izmir is 2 hours distance from Kusadasi and Last Minute Travels and Havas both have busses to Izmir airport and city.

We had booked a tour to go to Ephesus as the monuments are a bit spread out. Unfortunately, the tour agency cancelled our trip, but we came up with a better plan to reach Ephesus and tour the place. We stopped by the tourism office to find a way out. I’ll tell you the story of how we got there and toured the city later. Now, let’s learn about Ephesus aka Selcuk.

Ephesus (Selcuk): Ephesus was culturally rich and economically prosperous town. The Greeks turned this into port city for trading, worship (Temple of Artemis), entertainment (theatre) and education (library). Later, the Romans took over this city. Even Virgin Mary came here after crucifixion of Jesus and stayed till she breathed her last and her home is a place of worship today. Sadly, an earthquake turned this city into ruin and the one of the wonders of the ancient world is a ruin today.

Today, this town is akin to ruins at Hampi, where the Vijayanagar empire once upon flourished and was overthrown by Islamic invasion. You can skip your trip to Greece and Rome as this place has it all. Here is a small video tour: 

We took a local minivan from Kusadasi to Ephesus and walked to Temple of Artemis and Church and Fort. The 3 places are within 1 km away from the bus station in the same direction. At the temple of Artemis, we struck a deal with the local guy to take us to the house of Virgin Mary and ruins at Ephesus. He took us around for 3 hours and we had a magnificent self-tour of Ephesus. You can buy a single Museum pass that allows you to visit ruins, Basilica and Fortress. 

Where to stay?
I stayed at Kusadasi and did a day trip. But I see a lot of luxurious resorts and hotels in this town. You may want stay here.

What to see?
- Basilica
- Mosque
- Fortress
- Museum
- Temple of Artemis
- Ephesus ruins
- Virgin Mary’s House

Start early in the morning (8am) as the place can get little warm and ruins have no trees for shade.
Here are some pictures I took during my visit: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZU9oDfjoc1GLrKCg6

To and from bus terminus
Minivans run within the city and they take you to most of the places except Virgin Mary’s Home. You will need to strike a deal with the local cabbie to go there. There are lot of shuttles between Ephesus and Kusadasi and most long-distance busses stop at Ephesus bus terminus.

Hope you’ve been enjoying this trip so far. The next stop is at Cappadocia and that will be our last stop after which you will have to start planning your trip to Turkey. If you have any questions, I’m just an email away.  

Are you ready for Pamukkale?

After enjoying the first three days in Istanbul it was time for me to experience the mineral-rich thermal waters and visit the ancient Roman ruins at Pamukkale. 

Pamukkale is a small town in western Turkey known for the mineral-rich thermal waters flowing down white travertine terraces on a nearby hillside. Its neighbors Hierapolis, an ancient Roman spa city founded around 190 B.C. Ruins there include a well-preserved theater and a necropolis with sarcophagi that stretch for 2km. The Antique Pool is famous for its submerged Roman columns, the result of an earthquake.

Watch a short video: 

How to get there?
You’ll have to fly from Sabiah Gocken Airport, Istanbul to Denizili Airport. To get to Sabiah Gocken you can take Havas Bus from Taksim for 18 TL.

As soon as you exit Denzili aiport you will find Pamukkale tourism bus in the parking lot. It takes 60 mins and 35 TL/person to get to Pamukkale.

Where to stay?
This small town has everything kind of accommodation for every kind of pocket. From expensive resorts for deep pockets to moderately priced hotels to Airbnbs for others. Find an accommodation closer to the Park.

What to see in Pamukkale?
Apart from visiting the travertines and Hierapolis there is nothing else to see. It costs 30 TL to see both places. Deep pockets who like to fly high can go paragliding or in a hot air balloon over the travertines. The hot air balloons are much cheaper (150 Euros) to fly here compared to Goreme, Capadoccia. So, 1-day is a more than enough to finish Pamukkale and take a bus or flight to your next destination.

Other tips
- While travel agents may push you to join a tour, you can do it by yourself
- Start early as this place can get crowded and tourist go crazy in the travertines
- Wear light-colored clothing as the place gets warm and remains sunny 365 days a year
- Wear a flipflop as you will have to remove while you pass through the travertines
- Be wise to carry a water bottle, sunglass, hat, sunscreen
- You don’t have much food options on the top, so carry your own food
- Walk around the town in the morning to discover pomegranate trees in every yard
- This is a good place to buy carpets (bargain ruthlessly, don’t pay more than 50% of what they ask)

Where to eat?
There is just one street (Kale Mahallesi Ataturk Cadesi) in Pamukkale where you can find restaurants, tourism office, carpet and grocery stores. Avoid Hotel Mustafa – both food and service is awful.

When you are ready to leave…
You can book yourself on a bus from Pamukkale using this site http://busticketline.com/index.php/pamukkale-tourism-bus-company.html or fly out of Denizili to your next destination.

I took a complete rest day at Pamukkale. I woke up late, watched a few episodes of my favorite show on Netflix, walked around the town without any agenda, had a long conversation with the locals about their life and organized my notes for this blog.

Here are some pictures from my clicks: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FAofbQzQg4cuDSbc7

I'll catch you at my next destination, Kusadasi.

Istanbul: Know before you go…

Now that I’ve convinced you to visit Turkey and Istanbul, the below information will come in handy as plan your travel and pack your bags. 

When to go?

Unlike India that only has 3 seasons (hot, hotter and hottest), Istanbul has 3 distinct seasons (cool, cold and warm). From a climate point of view, April, May, September and October are the best suitable for Indian’s to India travel. To escape their frigid winters, Europeans descend in Turkey during April and May making it the peak travel season. If you traveling as a family with children, puja holidays are an ideal time to travel. From an air fare and accommodation perspective it is cheaper, and the weather is crisp and cool. 

For more information on weather, visit: https://weatherspark.com/y/95434/Average-Weather-in-%C4%B0stanbul-Turkey-Year-Round

Where to stay?
Sultanahmet on the Asian side of Istanbul is a great place to stay. Why?

1. Closer to monuments, markets, hamams and museums - Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, Sultanahmet Mosque, Eminonu, Grand Bazar and Arasat markets, Archeological, Mosaic and Carpet Museums are all walking distances

2. Direct connectivity from and to Istanbul airport – Havas bus service from and to Istanbul airport arrives at Sultanahmet

3. Myriad food options – Cemberlitas area has amazing food options and joints including the famous Hafiz Mustafa store to pick up Turkish Delights

4. Metro rail access – T1 metro rail meanders through Sultanahmet area and it can get you from the Asian side to the European side (in 10 mins)

5. Multiple stay options – From hostels for solo travelers, luxurious hotels for superrich to afforable AirBnBs for family travelers are available in this area

6. Tourism office – The Tourism office is also situation here and are very helpful in answering your queries and guiding you with the best recommendations

Where to change currency?
While many of the shops and restaurants accepts card, you will still need currency to get to the city and travel within the city.

• Don’t change currency at the airport as they pay you 10-15% less than what you can change in the city.
• You can change 18 TL/person to get to the city and exchange rest with money changers in Cemberlitas area.

How to get to and from Airport (cheapest way)?
Why do taxi drivers across the world behave the same way when it comes to fleecing customers and taking them for a ride. Remember, Uber is not widely available and popular in Istanbul. While a taxi may cost anywhere from 200-300 TL (approx. INR 2,600 to 3,900), Havas bus takes you to the city at 1/10 price for 18 TL.

• As you exit the arrival terminal watch out for bus sign. Go two levels down and got to bay number 18 for Sultanahmet. 
• Next to the bays you have a counter to purchase “Istanbulkart” that can be topped and used to travel between busses, ferries, funicular and metro in Istanbul. 
• Moreover, transfers are free within 2 hours of swipe and upto 5 people can use the same card.

For more information visit: https://www.istanbultouristpass.com/istanbul-public-transportation-card and http://www.havabus.com/

How to travel within the city? 

Public transportation in Istanbul is fantastic. Depending on the area you’re visiting, you can choose between busses, funicular, ferries and metro. The Asian and European sides are well connected by busses, ferries and metro. Of course, taxis are available but are expensive. Currently, the metro line is being extended to denser parts of the city like Balat, etc.

• You can use “Istanbulkart” and top it off at vending machines available at major stations and transit points. Never buy these cards or top it off with local vendors.
• You also have hop-off hop-on tour buses to take you to all important tourist places for a fee 

About the people 

People in Turkey are extremely friendly and helpful. In the age of artificial intelligence, they profile you based on your color and appearance and use appropriate language to get your attention and wallet share. 

• The merchants are ingenious marketers. For example, I was asked if I were from India or Pakistan and the moment, I said India they mentioned Aamir Khan, Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, Taj Mahal and also used some Hindi words to get my attention. 
• Outside every restaurant there is a person asking you if you are hungry and if you’ve taken your meal and handing you their menu card to look at. 
• Also, shop owners in markets are willing to negotiate and get you to spend. They will throw in a freebie to satisfy you haggling gene and get you to spend. 
• They will offer you treats and teas and will not be offended if you leave their story without buying. 
• You must experience the trick at the ice-cream stall. View this video

How about Wifi?
You will need a working phone number to use public wifi at the airports across Turkey. While restaurants and café have free-Wi-Fi, it is very helpful to have your own wifi (data card) to post your clicks on Insta and find your way back when you are lost.

I ordered 4G service through https://alldaywifi.com/ and had them deliver it at the airport and dropped it off at my last Airbnb. They give you a power bank and backup data card in case of malfunction. This works out cheaper for two people, if you are a solo you can activate your international service through your providers.

Best time to visit monuments
Monuments like Mosques, Churches and Museums are all open at 9 am. Some of them are closed one-day in a week and closed to public during worship time. Google ites your trusted friend for opening and closing time.

- Blue Mosque opens at 8.30 am and you can start your day there and move on to Hagia Sophia and then to Topkapi palace and finish with Basilica Cistern.

Should you buy Museum pass or not?
While single entry to some monuments may cost 50-60 TL, a museum pass at 220 TL gives you multiple entries across many monuments for 3 days. You will need to do your homework in identifying places of interest to you and exclusions to get maximum return on investment.
For more information, visit: https://www.touristcitypass.com/istanbul/

While the entry to Blue Mosque is free, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Carpet Museum, Mosaic Museum are covered under the Istanbul Museum Pass. Istanbul archeological Museum and Dolmabahçe Palace are not covered in the museum pass.

What to eat?
Turkey is a gastronomical paradise. You get the best of east and west. The food is mild and prepared spicy based on request. Here is a suggested list for you to explore.

1. Breakfast: Simit (Turkish bread coated with Sesame seeds), Kahvalti (Turkish breakfast)
2. Hot drinks: Apple and pomegranate tea, Cay and Kahve (Turkish tea and coffee)
3. Fresh juices: Orange and pomegranate
4. Fruits wines: grape, blackberry, pomegranate, etc.
5. Cheese: More than 180 varieties are there and 8 of them are GI tagged
6. Nuts: Badam, pista, chestnut, hazelnut, cashews,
7. Fruits: Apple, fig, peach, cherry, nectarine, mandarin, pear, grapes (depending on the season)
8. Lunch/Dinner: Lentil Corba, Mediterranean salad, Shawarma, Sea food,
9. Quick eats: Gozleme (flatbread with cheese, spinach, etc.), Yogurt
10. Deserts: Dondurma (ice-cream), Turkish delight, baklava, Kunefe, etc.

Where to eat and shop?
Where to eat, what to eat and shop are based on personal likes, preferences, and health of your wallet. If you are frugal and health conscious, you will not need 100 TL/person for all three meals.

• Eminonu Market is where the local shops. It is a great place to shop for spices, nuts, fruits, Turkish delights, eat local food and pick souvenirs. You can haggle here and pick up stuff at 50% cost compared to other places.
• Avoid Egyptian, Grand and Arasta Bazaar are where the tourists go and pay double the price for the same product.
• The Cemberlitas in Sultanahmet has both fancy and affordable restaurants and is walkable from the monuments.
• Balat area is similar to St. Germain in Paris and has fancy and artistic cafes and a cup of cappuccino cost 30 TL (INR 400). It is worth visiting this area to see the colorful building, artistic ghettos and grab a coffee for the sake of experience.
• If you are into partying, then Taksim square is the place for you. It is Le Marias of Istanbul and has numerous clubs that buzzes with activity till the wee hours.

Popular tourist traps
1. Wikipedia is banned in Turkey and you will not be able to access it
2. Taxis are a rip off
3. Grand Bazar, Egyptian Market, Arasta Bazar
4. Hop off Hop on service
5. Guides (go with audio guide for monuments)
6. Money changers at airport
7. Dinner and belly dance cruise

Best and cheap ways to experience Istanbul
1. Take Hava bus to IST and Sabiah Gocken Airport (domestic flights)
2. Walk or take local transportation for sightseeing (Istanbulkart)
3. Go on ferries to explore Bosporus, European side and princess islands
4. Make your breakfast in the room
5. Shop and eat in local market (Eminonu)
6. Use museum passes only if you are museum person
7. Best Whirling Dervishes (70 TL - https://istanbultourstudio.com/things-to-do/galata-mevlevi-house)

Itinerary for Istanbul and Turkey is available in my previous blog. Here are some pictures  https://photos.app.goo.gl/czHRF4FSxKg3wW9H8

See you at my next destination. 

So, where to travel in Turkey?

I hope my earlier blog has raised enough curiosity for you to peel the next layers on where, when, and how to travel in Turkey. In this blog, I’ll help you make a choice on where all to travel. Let’s start with geography.

Geography 101

Turkey is situated in Western Asia bordering the Black Sea, between Bulgaria and Georgia, and bordering the Aegean Sea and the Mediterranean Sea, between Greece and Syria. It extends more than 1,600 km (994 mi) from west to east but generally less than 800 km (497 mi) from north to south. 

Despite ¼ the size of India, Turkey packs all kinds treasures, landscapes, flora and fauna within in its 783,562 sq km boundary.

•          It is surrounded by water on three sides and boasts of 7,200 kms of coastline. The coastal areas are divided into the Black Sea region, the Marmara region, the Aegean region, and the Mediterranean region.
•          The interior areas are divided into three regions: Central Anatolia, Eastern Anatolia and Southeastern Anatolia.
•         Turkey has one peak of over 5000 meters in altitude (Mt. Ararat), three over 4000 meters and 129 peaks exceeding 3000 meters. Also, it is home to several dormant volcanoes.

Watch a short video to help get a grasp of what the country has to offer.

From Kings, spiritualists, conquerors to traders across many civilizations have made Turkey their home. They came to here to prosper monetarily and spiritually. Even today there is something for everyone, from history buffs, archaeologists, city planners, epicureans, adventure junkies, beach lovers to mountain climbers.

You will need months to thoroughly explore this country; 10 to 15 days is a reasonable duration to experience the culture and landscape and may be come back for more. So, where all did I go?

-        Istanbul (Marama region) – To enjoy the city that spans across both continents Asia and Europe and enjoy the culture and cuisine

-        Kusadasi and Ephesus (Aegean region) – Explore the beautiful coastline, understand the Biblical connections and visit the Roman ruins

-        Pamukkale and Cappadoccia (Central Anatolia) – Enjoy stark landscape and understand the lifestyle and history of the earlier civilizations (Hittites, Romans, Christians, Ottomans)

Date	Place	Travel details	No of Days
Sep 21 – Sep 23	Istanbul (Grand Bazaar, Bosporus Cruise, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Galata Tower, Basilica Cistern, Museums)	Fly into Istanbul and keep an evening for acclimatization, if you are taking a long flight.	3 days
Sep 24 – 26	Pamukkale (Travertines, Hierapolis – Roman Ruins)	Fly into Denizili and take an hour-long bus ride to Pamukkale. I took a rest day to relax and enjoy my vacation	3 days
Sep 27	Kusadasi (seaside town)	4-hour bus ride from Pamukkale. First bus at 10 am.	1 day
Sep 28	Ephesus (Biblical connections and Roman ruins)	15 mins bus ride and engage a cab to visit Ephesus aka Selcuk	1 day
Sep 29	Kusadasi	My second rest day to absorb and understand all that I saw. Took an afternoon bus to Izmir to catch evening flight to Kayseri and then an hour-long bus ride to Nevsehir.	1 day
Sep 30 – Oct 2	Nevsehir (Places in Red and Green Tour)	Goreme is 15 mins bus ride from Nevsehir	3 days
Oct 2-4	Istanbul (Balat District, Whirling Dervishes, Shopping at Egyptian and Eminonu Markets)	Fly out of Istanbul to your home or next destination	2 days

In my next blog, I’ll walk you through the first stop in my itinerary, Istanbul.

•          When to go?
•          Where to stay?
•          Packing the right landing gear
•      Where to change currency?
•          How to get to and from Airport (cheapest way)
•          How to travel within the city? 
•      Best time to visit monuments
•          About the people
•          Popular tourist traps and how to avoid them
•      Should you buy Museum pass or not?
•         Where to eat?
•         Where to shop?
•          What to bring home?

5Cs why Turkey should feature high on your vacation list

We live in “experience age” where ownership takes the back seat. Everyone from youngsters to oldies want to travel, experience the world and update their Instagram with images capable of seeding desire and inducing jealousy among followers and travelers. Today, I list down 5 reasons why Turkey should feature high on your vacation list.

Culture
Turkey enjoys a unique geographic position as it partly lies in Asia and Europe making it culturally vibrant, diverse and heterogenous. It is truly multi-ethnic and multi-religious country. You cannot find any other country in the world that is as diverse and amalgamating the best of both East and West. May be this was also the reason why Hittites, Romans, Christians, and Ottomans made it their home enriching the land, culture, and people. UNESCO has tagged 100s places as heritage sites and archeologist continue to discover new sites every day that pre-dates Hittites. Lastly, did you know Turkish and Hindi share more than 150 words?

Cuisine
Proximity to Mediterranean Sea and its climate has a great influence on Turkish cuisine. From hunger arousing breads (simit), mindboggling cheeses (100s of varieties of which 8 are GI tagged), colorful salads garnished with nuts and olive oil, fruits (olives, berries, fig, apple and pomegranate) to sweetmeats (Delights, Baklavas, Dondurma). If you would like to stick to local cuisine, then there is lentil Corba, Shawarma and Kunefe followed by Apple or Pomegranate tea. There is a lot for vegetarians too in this country. In short, it is a culinary paradise for epicureans.

Climate
Turkey enjoys bountiful blessings from mother nature. It has beautiful coastlines, lofty peaks, dormant volcanoes, flat plains and valleys enriching its flora and fauna. Their breathtaking beaches along Aegean Sea, Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean makes it a great getaway location for many Europeans who want to escape frigid winters. Mountains closer to the coast prevent maritime influences from extending inland, giving the central Anatolian plateau of the interior of Turkey a continental climate with sharply contrasting seasons. The eastern part of Turkey is the wettest (2500 mm of annual rainfall), while Anatolian plans are the driest (300 mm of annual rainfall). Read this link for more information on the seasons to plan your visit.

Connectivity
From time immemorial Turkey has enjoyed amazing connectivity with both the East and West. That explains why the Greeks, Romans and Persians Kings made a beeline. The newly opened airport at Istanbul records a touchdown and takeoff every 74 seconds and is being expanded to handle over 200mn tourists a year by 2023. Cruise in the Mediterranean, high-speed trains between big cities, dense bus network connecting smaller and bigger cities and last mile connectivity in cities ensure tourists can move around with ease to enjoy the beauty of the country. India is light years behind when it comes to high-speed trains and last mile connectivity. It is easier and delightful to travel in Turkey than in India.

Currency
Unlike Euro, Dollar, Yen, SGD, AUD or Kronas the Turkish Lira (TL) is very much affordable. Recently, the fall of TL has made it an affordable destination of Indians too. 1 TL is approximately 12.5 rupees making it one of the cheapest countries for Indians to visit, while providing better experience of history than Singapore, Australia, US, and UK. If you avoid peak seasons when Europeans visit (Apr – Aug) and winters (Dec - Mar) and stay in Airbnbs’, you can do a comfortable vacation under INR 100,000/person (inclusive of air tickets).

If you're still not convinced, its okay. In the upcoming blogs, I’ll share more information on how to travel safe and cheap in Turkey, and draw parallels to monuments and places in our country, something that is not available in any of the guidebooks. Hopefully, that should convince you to book your tickets.