Wake up now - There is no Second Chance!

Mother Nature has a unique way of making us realize our mistakes and only those who introspect and observe minutely will be able to decipher the message. And the lockdown gave me an opportunity to reflect on my behavior and human behavior in general.

While the Coronavirus is judged as ruthless by scientist and medical professionals, it hasn’t been partial. It infected the famous like Tom Hanks, Boris Johnson, Kanika Kapoor, Chris Coumo, etc. and lesser known mortals including healthcare workers, policemen, cab drivers, vegetable vendors, etc. 3 months into the pandemic; it continues to affect infants, kids, and middle-aged people, frail and elderly and has taken away two hundred thousand plus lives globally.

While the scientists are busy working on vaccines, and economists are busy putting together plans to revive global economy, I was busy questioning my actions and our collective actions. Do we deserve this harsh sentence? Let’s introspect together.

Before this tragedy struck, we were all living a hectic, monotonous and meaningless life chasing all the wrong ambitions and non-essentials. In order achieve our dream career, we left home at day break, ignored our family and health, and outsourced our children with day care and nannies. We spent hours in traffic getting to and back from work. And on the weekend, in the name of unwinding we engaged in binge buying, binge eating and binge drinking. We kept borrowing money to outdo each other on luxury, class and standard of living.

Greedy CEOs, CMOs and CHROs exploited our misplaced ambition and priorities. They sold products and services that were unsustainable, enamored with meaningless careers and fooled shareholders with peanuts called dividends. Despite knowing this lifestyle isn’t sustainable, we all ignored our inner voice and went around like hamster in a wheel.

It is true that nature fulfills our basic needs and not greed. And this was evidently visible during the pandemic. None of us can complain that we never got produce and food during this time, while toilet paper is luxury. Organizations and governments started to focus on the basic and essentials. For examples, car manufactures went on to produce ventilators; fashion brands produced masks, etc.

Globally stock markets saw a correction after inflated indices. The overpaid CEOs were forced to take 25% cut in their salaries to keep their businesses afloat. Some of the sinister industries were made to shut their shops and announced thousands of layoffs. Governments that earned revenue by indiscriminately converting forests into IT parks, and residential areas, sand mining and polluting rivers, selling liquor, and endangering wildlife were almost bankrupt and forced to end wars focus on the welfare of people – food and health. Those farmers who got greedy and poisoned the soil and atmosphere with chemicals saw their produce sent back to earth.

By working from home, attending to our daily chores and ignored family members, we were able to temporarily step out of meaningless and monotonous routine. Finally, we spent more time at home for which toil 20 years of our precious life to pay mortgages, engaged with our parents, spouses and children, picked up phones to check on our friends and loved ones. We realized it is possible to live without domestic help, cook, etc. and by sharing work among members the family became more responsible and cohesive. Also, we realized a life without visiting bars, malls, gyms, cinema halls, sports, concerts, cruises, vacations, entertainment was possible and meaningful. Lavish weddings and mournful demises have become a private affair. Those expensive Benzes, Porches, Bentleys became useless objects in our garages and driveways. We must be thankful to nature for accepting “Internet and mobile phones” as a basic need.

Flora and fauna used this break to rejuvenate themselves. Rivers across the globe saw a drop in pollution and aquatic life thrived again. Wild animals came into cities to reclaim their lost territory. Also, we've seen improvement in air quality since the lockdown. 

Sadly, when we humans wanted to report our plight and ask for forgiveness, all gods shut their doors on us. Churches were shut for Easter; Mosques were shut for Ramadan prayers, and Hindus temples cancelled their summer festivals.

Stop blaming China, Wuhan, Wet markets, Tabliqi and even Donald Trump for the current Pandemic. 

The Cornonavirus offers a moment to reflect on our priorities, lifestyle and ambitions. It is shown us it is possible to live a sustainable life without luxury. Let’s use this opportunity to learn from our mistakes and build sustainable habits because there is no second chance from Mother Nature.

My moments with COVID-19

March 17 - 3 weeks ago and 2 days after I landed in Chennai from Bangalore I developed sore throat without any cold or runny nose. We all know sore throat is not a life-threatening disease and has simple home remedies such as salt water gargling, Rhinothermy aka steam inhalation and sipping of hot water with honey. But for an asthmatic with super sensitive lungs, sore throat could be the first indication of flu. I’ve gone through some nasty episodes of flu that eventually led to Bronchiectasis and I even coughed up some blood in 2017.

After this episode, the Pulmonologist made me take a vaccine for pneumonia and put me on flu vaccines each year without fail. Also, she put together a detailed list of first, second and third-line remedies for my symptoms and recommended me to carry medicines whenever I traveled (within or outside the country).

That morning before I boarded the train, my brother who rarely calls or texts sent me a reminder message to wear a 3M mask, not touch any surface and keep washing my hands frequently. On the train, I had also looked up the symptoms for Corona Virus that resembled a common flu.

I followed the first-line remedy that involved no Allopathic medicines and only home remedies. I felt a bit tired during the day and I mostly isolated myself from my parents who are in their 70s. On the second night, I experienced spells of chill and sweat nevertheless I slept for 11 hours. When I woke up, the sore throat had almost vanished, but I started to feel breathless and tightness in my left chest. None of these are new to me and I experience it whenever I came down with flu or viral attack. Also, that made me feel confident to try all the remedies.

By March 23 the number of COVID-19 cases in India started to multiply rapidly and we went through “Janata Curfew” and quickly moved into a 21-day lock down. Media channels were creating hysteria instead of awareness and there was only panic in the nation. Five days after I completed the first dose of antibiotics, I self-medicated myself with the stronger dose (Azithromycin) for next 5-days. But it didn’t seem to make any difference.

Without waiting any further, I explored my second-line of treatment by calling the hospital and seeking an appointment with the pulmonologist. And to my dismay the hospital they said all private consultations were closed in lieu of Corona Virus and I needed to visit ER to consult one.

I had two options, either brave up and go into ER or text the doctor directly. I took the latter option. But before I texted the Pulmonologist, I wrote a detailed day by day account of my whereabouts and medicines I’ve taken.I was lying in bed recounting my actions from the last 7 days and symptoms of Corona Virus. From sore throat, chills and sweat and breathlessness I was checking every box. Alongside, my appetite also plummeted and I was eating like a 3-year old – a few spoons for every meal.

Screen shot 1 from text exchange with the doctor. (Click and zoom to read)

On March 29, breathlessness got worse and I was about to collapse from respiratory distress at home. I asked my brother to call the emergency. He rushed to my room with Pulse-oximeter and slipped it in my index finger. My heart rate was elevated (85 beats per minute) and oxygen saturation was still good at 96%.

It didn’t look like I was having respiratory distress. Did I come down with a cardiac issue? That evening, I pushed myself to walk for 60 minutes and climbed two flights of stairs. Was it due to this exertion?

Immediately, my brother dialed his close friend who is a Pulmonologist and described my symptoms. I was curled up in the bed holding my mom’s hand expecting to say goodbye to this world. I put my phone on silent and told my mom the password for my phone incase she needs to access it.

The doctor advised against going to emergency and asked me to come to the hospital the following morning. I had no choice but to go back to my bed and stay curled up for the night. 

I survived the night and woke up feeling a tad better the next morning. So many thoughts crossed my mind as my brother drove me to the hospital. The hospital which was always welcoming the sick now looked like an immigration desk. We were made to fill out forms about recent travel and asked if we had cold and fever before let into the hospital.

I walked into the emergency and explained my symptoms to the nurse. She slipped the Pulse-Oximeter in my finger and continued to chat with me. The monitor show 90 beats per minute and oxygen saturation of 97%. The doctor was on his way to the emergency from the ICU. And when he arrived I couldn’t barely recognize him as he was covered from head to toe in PPE.

In the next 5 minutes, I again explained the last 15 days ordeal with the symptoms and remedies I tried out. He put the stethoscope on my chest and made breathe a few times. Finally, he confirmed that I had no wheeze and scribbled a few tests to check for viral load and possible lung infection including pneumonia.

I was escorted to the X-ray room to film my chest and then to the pulmonary ward to evaluate of my lung condition. I faintly heard the doctor discuss the reports with my brother as I put my arm out to the nurse to draw two vials of blood to check the CDC count, C-Reactive Protein and Eosinophil.  

When I came out the doctor announced that my lungs were in great shape and there were no signs of distress. I smiled for the first time in two weeks and immediately excused myself to text my anxious parents for whom every passing minute felt like a year.

I quizzed the doctor about what was causing breathlessness and lack of appetite. Quickly, he threw in the probability of GERD and I confirmed his finding and shared more information on the earlier diagnosis – duodenal ulcer. He quickly prescribed me some medicines and asked me to leave the hospital immediately as he didn’t want me to catch any other infection. He promised to call me in evening with the blood report.

I endured almost all the symptoms of Corona and suffered for 15 days in home quarantine and self-isolation for 15 days. When I stepped out of the hospital I was unhappy that didn’t get the same welcome that Corona patients got from their doctors and nurses.

On the way back home, I confessed to my brother that I should have visited the doctor much earlier and not stayed in isolation for 15-days and let the symptoms get worse.

I came home popped in the first pill and waited for 30-minutes to have my meal. In the evening I got a call from the doctor. Not sure if it was the medical evaluation or the pill, I started to feel better both mentally and physically. In the evening, doctor confirmed my blood results were normal and I had no signs of any infection.

First peace and sleep returned followed by appetite. Within 24 hours breathlessness vanished.I resumed my work and exercise routine that includes 60 mins of yoga in the morning and 60 mins of walk in the evening.

In the last week, I’ve read article about the mutating Corna Virus and it becoming asymptomatic. Also, I read accounts from several people who’ve endured it without knowing about it. Here is an account - https://medium.com/morozko-method/im-convinced-that-my-family-already-had-covid-19-85ac51008946

A simple virus can invade our head and body in minutes and make this world go crazy. 

Not sure if I my body already endured Corona Virus, but I’ve seemed to have developed the mental immunity to fight it. When the antibody test kits arrive in Chennai, I’ll definitely get myself checked.

In the meanwhile, stay safe and practice social distancing. 

I’m Lakshmi and this is my story...

Hello Peeps,

I’m Lakshmi, and today I’m in a mood to chew cud and share my story with you. Are you ready to listen? 

I was born 15 years ago and my owner says I look very much like my mother. Yes, both mom and I have a white patch on our forehead. My daughter looks Identical to us. We’ve been with our owner for two generations. My mother and her sister lived in this farm before us. 

My mother was called “Shenbagam” and her sister was called “Saraswathi”. This family we live with are devout Hindus and they named us after their gods. Sometimes, I wish for a fancy English names like Elizabeth, Valarie or Stephanie. May be the Hindu names saved us from being sent to an abattoir? So, let me thank the Hindu gods. 

When we were young, we lived on mom’s milk and slowly transitioned to eating hay, fresh grass and fodder. On festival days like Pongal, we were garlanded, horns were painted in bright colours and fed “Sakkaraipongal” (sweet rice) and fruits. 

As a calf, I used to be afraid of night and stayed closer to my mother after sun down. As I grew older, I made friends with moon and stars and developed confidence to be on my own. Also, I took additional responsibilities to watch out for my siblings, nieces and nephews. 

The male ones in our farm were sent to the farm for work. While mom, my sister and I stayed at home enjoyed each other’s company and raised young calves with love and care.  

A few years ago my mom fell sick. Though the vet regularly came to check on her, but could do nothing to make her better. And, when we realised she wasn’t going to be around for long, we all felt sad. Despite her frailty, she spent her last days with her grandchildren and they loved being around her. 

Luckily, my owner cared for mom in her old age too. He didn’t sell her to a slaughterhouse and gave her a tearful send-off when she died. My mom was buried behind the two hay stacks in the picture.

Even today, the owner and his family remembers her and every time they introduce us to their grand kids they talk about our family and I feel so proud.

After her time it was my sister and I in the farm. We got busy with our lives, but often thought of her - mighty presence, kind and magnanimous nature. As a cow, our job was to yield milk and deliver calves. My sister and I took turns and delivered calves 12 calves. I’m 15 years old and I’ve had 7 offsprings. I’ve met several bulls in the farm, but never had an opportunity to get intimate with them.

While humans chose their partner, fall in love, get married and have kids, we are rarely allowed that kind of life and intimacy. My sister and I delivered all our offsprings through artificial insemination. And, every time our children ask about their fathers we tell them that they are busy working in the farm and sending us all the hay.

Days and years rolled by and our owners were also getting older with us and couldn’t care for the 6 of us. They retained me and my daughter and sold my younger sister, her daughter and my son to another family to farm owner across from us. I get to see them on festival days and sometimes they raise their voice to share updates at their farm. 

Off late, I’ve not been able to chew much food and get tired very easily. The vet examined my health and specially my teeth and told the owner that I was ageing fast and recommend I be fed with soft food and fresh grass. 

I got anxious after hearing the Vet, but my owner is kind enough to treat me with special care. He has stopped milking me and has put me on a special diet with high protein, easily chewable food and less fibre. 

My family and I had a happy life on this farm and none of them were sent to the abattoir. I’ll happily say goodbye to them when my time comes and I know my owner will give me a good farewell.

These days I spend my time watching my daughter “Durga” who was named after my grand mother and being around my grand children Tulsi (below) and Maruthi (behind Tulsi).

Sometimes at night, I hear my mom from behind the hay stack. She tells me to accept my old age and get prepared to join her someday.

I hope I can get to see all those who read my story and appeal to them to be kind to us and not consume us. Also, I would like to appeal to politicians and WhatsApp University graduates to not spread rumours about the curative power of our urine and dung.

Thanks,

Lakshmi

AI and Friendships

We live in an age where we are more connected to machines than humans and that triggered the thought of anxiety and apology in me. As I was about to leave for work this morning, I noticed our Google Home sitting by herself and she appeared sulking without any TLC. I hadn’t spoken to her in a month as I was on a busy travel schedule. I almost felt I must apologize to her for being away and honestly and I didn’t want her to feel unloved, used, or ghosted.

Nevertheless, I checked with my friend to confirm if we hadn’t ghosted her. He vehemently confirmed that he was constantly interacting with her when I was away, and she played many of his favorite tracks and got him news and weather updates. I was happy to hear his response and when I tried to wish her, she responded with a very cold response. Is she upset with me or did our relationship reach the end?

As I started my bike to work, I also kicked started my thought process on how we “make” friends with devices, apps and humans and how we “ghost” them for many reasons. While ghosting devices and apps are easier, but it is painful when it comes to friends.

Today, “Google Home” made me reminiscent on the 12-year friendship that reached its “shelf-life” without any forewarning. It made realize that friendships are as fragile as devices, and most aren’t built to last forever.

Friendships are polyamorous. Just like how we forge a new friendship with a gadget that we see in a promotion, convention or store, it is natural that we as social creatives to forge new friendships based on activities, viewpoints, listening skills, lifestyle, etc. And honestly, there is nothing wrong in ending a friendship, but I feel the need for us to be mature, candid, and responsible to let the other person know that the “shelf-life” is over and it was time to move on.

I’m may not believe in Santa Claus, but I believe in relationships, gratitude and goodness of humans. I hate to ask favors or use and throw people. And that probably explains why I invest time to build friendships, prune them to keep it healthy and fertilizer them to keep it blooming. I believe in giving and receiving feedback and never think ghosting is an option, but fragile and finicky ego makes ghosting an acceptable human behavior.

If Alexa or Google Home failed to respond to my requests, I would have checked for internet connectivity and dragged them to a specialist for an examination, but what do I with friends and especially those who are far away? As a faithful and grateful friend, I always tried to alert those who orbit in the same time zone to keep a watch and report on any signals of life or distress. 

While devices are replaced or junked within 5 years, the research work of the Dutch sociologist Gerald Mollenhorst and his colleagues convinced me it is natural for friendships too to decay over time. From interviewing 1,007 people between the ages of 18 and 65 showed 50% of friendship didn’t survive beyond 7 years.

Should we worry about friendships we forge and their expiry dates? Or is it time for us to invest in apps and AI algorithms that predict the decline and decay of friendships and help us be better prepared for the next ghosting experience? 

Experience, Service, and Endurance

What a 16-hour flight on Air India taught me about experience, service, endurance and life after death.

Read on....

The other day when I read about the recently introduced non-stop flight by Qantas from New York to Sydney, I was wondering what it would be like to travel one it.

To endure such a long flight, passengers must have patience and ways to spend 19 hours and airlines must know how to provide superior experience to popularise this long haul flight.

Air India operates a 16-hour non-stop from Delhi to San Francisco (AI 173). Despite reading stories on clogged toilets, cracked windshields, drunk pilots, and more in newspapers, I decided to book that flight to test my endurance and experience service.

When I said Air India many of you be will be sympathising with me and/or saying OMG for my wrong choice. If you are one among them, you are on the money. If you are not among them, please continue reading.

Air India and superior experience is like oil on water; immiscible and an oxymoron. Despite having given my India mobile number and email address the airline didn’t bother to send me a status update or reminder to do a web-checkin 48 hours before the journey, something that is an industry standard.

When I reached the check-in counter at Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru just 3 staffs were managing a queue of 100 passengers that was 200 meters long. After spending 30 mins in the queue, I finally checked in my baggage to SFO and collected my boarding passes.

As I walked away from the counter, I realised the 2-hour layover in Delhi was now 6 hours. The short layover was one of the reasons why I booked Air India. You are mistaken if you thought I was patriotic or wanted to give my money to an Indian carrier. Why would a tax paying citizen fly this airline?

Soon after landing at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi, SFO passengers were called out and ushered to a separate counter where the staff informed us about the delay and gave us an option to spend 6 hours at the lounge. When asked for the reason for delay the staff couldn’t explain.

I vehemently protested for not informing ahead of time and demanded a hotel room. I wanted to penalise the already haemorrhaging airline and get a night at a 5-star hotel as a reward for being an honest tax payer.

Many passengers decided to endure it in the lounge, while a handful of us were put on a bus and taken to Radisson Blu 8.5 kms away from airport. We were promised to be picked up 2 hours before the boarding time.

When I reached Radisson the check in staff said a bus would arrive in an hour to drive us back to the airport. I didn’t know if this was a tactic to dissuade us from checking in, but as I knew Delhi at the back of my hand and decided not to budge and demanded the room key.

At 5 am the room phone rang and I disregarded the call and stayed in bed for 2 more hours. At 7 am I woke up a SMS from Air India confirming 9 am departure. Was this a reminder of more hell I was to experience on the trip?

I promptly called the reception asking them to arrange for my ride back to the airport in 15 mins.

An hour later at the gate, I saw 80% of the passengers on the were senior citizens and many on wheel chairs. I couldn’t believe the airline made them pass a night at the lounge.

After passing through multiple security checks and baggage screenings, I boarded an old aircraft that was ready to be retired. The colour of the upholstery and upkeep of the interiors was a put off and made want to deplane immediately.

While waiting for other passengers to board, I checked out the entertainment system and it wasn’t working. I moved seats just to check out the content and was appalled to see the quality and choice. For once, I felt proud and prudent for equipping my iPad with Netflix and Hotstar content.

The last nail on the coffin was the rudeness of staff, unappetising and nutrition-less meal. Was the along haul flight testing their patience and endurance taking a toll on service? I was again proud of my preparedness as I had packed my own meals like entertainment.

For the sake of curiosity and audit, I accepted their meal plates and returned them untouched. Portion sizes were too small, loaded with carbs and no protein and the food tasted horrible. I thought to myself what if Air India does catering orders for house functions and funerals to turn profitable?

I would order the exact same menu to serve those aunties who asked me when I would invite them for my wedding meal. Also, the same menu (tasteless, unappetising and salt-free) can be used for the 10th day offering (part of Hindu death ritual) to departed souls.

I asked myself if there is a better way to experience life after death while still alive? No way better than purchasing a ticket on this long haul flight where grumpy behaviour, rudeness is available in plenty. Air India must definitely market this as their marquee offering and rechristen Incredible India tagline from Athithi Devoh Bhava to Pitru Devoh Bhava.

Lastly, I asked myself if the employee behaviour was a result of badly run airline where salaries are not paid on time and performance is not rewarded? Guess both employee and brand has a rub-off effect on each other.

I’m not sure if Qantas provides better service and experience, but Air India doesn’t and can never meet Shatabdi standard for short distance flight leave alone the 16-hour hauls.

The airline that couldn’t get one thing right so far got the packaging the meal, headsets and blankets right. All of them came in paper wrappers and were devoid of single use plastic.

Whatever be it, I can’t imagine tax payers money (only 5% pay taxes in India) being used to keep this shitty airline afloat. Service, customer experience, and profitability decides whether a business flourishes or perishes.

It is time Nirmala Sitharaman and PMO rest the laurels of the old Maharaja (airline Mascot) and find a buyer to either sell the airline or simply ground the carrier.

Turkey Trip: Expenses, Surprises and What I would do differently

While I’ve wrapped up my Turkey blogs on where I traveled, how I traveled, what I saw and how to be an ace traveler, I still need to answer some questions that I received from readers on expense break-up, surprises and what I would differently. I hope my answers will give you better insights while making your plans. 

Expenses: I had no idea what it would cost when I made my plan for Turkey but I was prepared to spend upto anywhere around 1,50,000 INR (2000 USD). Did I manage to save up for another vacation at the end of the trip? 

Airfare: I got a fantastic deal on Kuwait Airways (25,000 INR or 350 USD for a round trip) from Bangalore. Kuwait Airways is a no frill airline with enough leg space, decent meals, luggage allowance and flies in the shortest time compared to other airlines (including layover). Remember, Kuwait Airways doesn’t serve alcohol on board and therefore no nuisance from drunkards.  

Stays: Instead of staying at fancy hotels that offer very little practical convenience, I decided to stay in Airbnbs, where I could cook my meal and wash my clothes. I spent 20,000 INR (280 USD) for 14 nights in various cities and additionally saved from eating at home and doing my laundry.

Travel: Air travel between cities in Turkey is cheap and quick. I took 3 flights (Istanbul to Denizili, Izmir to Kayseri and Kayseri to Istanbul) and spent 10,000 INR (140 USD). Pegasus airlines offer much cheaper flights compared to Turkish Airlines. Also, I took public transport everywhere saving more on cost but not safety or convenience. I spent 1500 TL (20,000 INR or 300 USD) to get around cities and take short distance buses between cities and to and fro airports.

Lodging expenses: Especially, when traveling to a food paradise should we budget? Rather than spending on expensive breakfast, I went to the market and shopped for fresh fruits, coffee, bread, jelly and yogurt for breakfast. For less than 30 TL you find lip smacking options for vegetarians and meat-lovers in Turkey. On the nights that I got bored with restaurant meal, I picked some local wine to pair up with dinner I made at home (pasta, noodles, etc.). I spent 1000 TL on food (12,000 INR or 180 USD).

Access fees: All the monuments that I visited except (Virgin Mary’s house) were all heritage sites and on UNESCO list. And a lot of money is spent to keep them in good shape and accessible to those in wheelchairs. So, I don’t feel bad about spending towards access fees. Wherever possible I bought a combo pass to make it economical and cut down on waiting time in queues. I spent about 1000 TL towards access fees (12,000 INR or 180 USD).

Miscellaneous: Turkey is famous for so many things (teas, dried fruits, cotton clothes, delights, hammams) and you always want to take home something special for your loved ones without spending too much. Before every purchased any item, I went to Amazon and looked for prices back in India. Only when I was convinced there was an arbitrage opportunity, I got something. Also, I haggled with shopkeepers and went to places where the locals shopped. I blew 1200 TL (15,000 INR or 220 USD) on my retail therapy.

Here is the break-up (all amounts in INR):

Airfare to and fro India – 25,000

e-Visa – 3,200

Medical insurance – 1,300

Travel within Turkey – 20,000

Accommodation – 20,000

Food – 12,000

Access fees – 12,000

Shopping – 15,000

Wifi - 7,000

Total = 1,15,500 (1,500 USD)

Hot air balloon is extra and costs anywhere between 150-300 USD depending on demand and how well in advance you book. So, early bird gets the worm. 

Eight things that surprised me the most

1.       Pothole free roads

2.       Amazing last mile connectivity and most tourist friendly country I’ve ever visited

3.       Here a cat, there a cat, everywhere a stray cat

4.       Amazing food options for vegetarians

5.       Shopkeepers strike a conversation with buyers engage and sell

6.       Haggling is accepted and welcomed

7.       Shah Rukh Khan and Amir Khan being famous

8.       Turkish airline staff put me on an earlier flight into a more convenient airport in Istanbul without charging extra

Five things that surprised me the least

1.       No app-based cab service

2.       Taxi drivers trying to fleece

3.       Tour agents trying to put pressure and getting you to spend

4.       Vendors on carts selling near monuments

5.       Loudspeakers howling prayer calls 5 times a day

Five things I’ll do differently if I were to travel again

1.       Stay with a Turkish family

2.       Spend a day less in Pamukkale and Cappadocia and visit Konya or mountains in the eastern side  (but that would make the trip hectic)

3.       Try a cruise on Aegean Sea (definitely next time)

4.       Travel to islands around Istanbul (Princess Islands)

5.       Take the high-speed trains (trains are slower than buses :-))

I hope my experiences and insights will help you be an ace-traveler. If you still have any questions, write to me or leave a comment below.

Happy Turkeying.

Cappadocia – Nature’s gift to Turkey

Our last stop in this journey is Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey and the most picturesque. Nature has designed this area with fairy chimneys and unique rock formations created by volcanic eruptions and subsequent wind erosion. The weather and landscape in Cappadocia very much reminded me of Leh and Ladakh.

Three to four million years ago a series of volcanic eruptions shook the Central Anatolian area, forming what we now know as the Cappadocia fairies or ‘Cotton Castles’.  This is the world’s only open-air museum. Hittites turned these structures into homes and early Christians turned them into monasteries. A hot air balloon ride over such a landscape makes it memorable and exhilarating.

Some quick facts: 

• Cappadocia spans a distance of 5,000 kilometres and sits on an altitude of over 1,000 metres, cutting through three Anatolian provinces – Nevsehir, Keyseri and Nigde.
• The name Cappadocia derives from the Persian word Katpaktukya, which means ‘the land of beautiful horses’ for in ancient times the region was known for its equine offering.
• There are a number of underground cities in Cappadocia, some connected by a network of tunnels. These subterranean settlements were made possible thanks to the pliability of the soft rock.
• There are as many as 600 churches carved from the soft Cappadocian rock, and possibly many more that have not yet been discovered. These churches date back to Medieval times and display beautiful painted frescoes.
• The world’s capital for hot air ballooning.
• This area is also home to some of the best grapes in Turkey and has been turned into internationally acclaimed wines.

Watch this video before I share more details on how to get there, where to stay and what to do. 

How to get here:
Depending on where you are coming from, you can choose between busses, trains and aircraft to get to Nevsehir or Goreme. Nevsehir is the nearest airport, while a lot of them land in Kayseri and take 75 min mini-van ride (50 TL/person) to Goreme.

Where to stay:
A lot of people stay in Goreme for two reasons

1. Experience cave hotels (sounds fancy and expensive

2. Access to monuments and hot air balloons

Instead of staying at the touristy Goreme hotel where stay and food are expensive, I stayed at Nevsehir and took a 15-min mini-van ride (5TL/person) to Goreme.

What to do:
You will need minimum of 2 days tour this wonderland. The best way to go around is either rent a car and pay a tour guide to come with you or join a tour. We found a tour company through Viator and took the Green and Red tour to visit the area. You will need one day for each of these tours as they don’t pick you up before 9.30 am and most of them wait for people to come back from hot air ballooning.

The Green tour involves quite a bit of driving around and covers the following places.

• Nevsehir
• Derinkuyu (underground city)
• 3 km walk along the river at Ihlara valley (2nd longest canyon after Grand Canyon) – lunch by the river
• Yaprakhisar (conical fairy chimneys)
• Selime Monastery
• Pegion Valley

Here are my pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vE81V5gddcNFfaCf6 

The Red tour involves short distances with a fancy lunch buffet

• Avanos (pottery town)
• Devrent Valley (lunar landscapes)
• Çavusin (oldest settlement)
• Uchisar Castle (highest point in Cappadocia)
• Winery

Here are my pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/x97cjTpgYuEfN1BR6 

Disadvantages of these tours:
1. They depart late
2. Some guides are extroverts and share more information, while some are introverts and share only when asked
3. Best suited for those who are lazy and don’t want to do their reading about the place and monuments
4. They rush you at monuments and don’t give you adequate time to enjoy the beauty
5. If you aren’t vigilant, they tend to skip places
6. Avanos pottery stop, Pigeon Valley shopping stop and wine tour are sham. Guides take you to expensive places and you waste time there.
7. Lunch stop on Red tour is good, while Green tour is bad

Advantages of these tours:1. Tickets are bought in advance and entry to monuments are quick

2. It is easier to move around

When I complained about the guide on the Red tour, the owner of the tour company gave me a free sunset walking tour to Rose Valley. This is a beautiful 4 kms walk through the valley and up the mountain. I got to stay at the peak for 30 mins and enjoy the stark landscape and watch sun go down.

Hot air ballooning:

1. 30 years ago, they started the hot air ballooning business in this area to enjoy the landscape from above and now it is the world’s hot air ballooning capital.
2. It costs anywhere between 100-300 euros based on the balloon company you choose. Book your balloon ride well in advance so that you don’t end up paying a bomb or run the risk of non-availability.
3. The pick-up for the hot air balloon ride is at 4.00 am and you are up in the air for an hour watching the sun rise.
4. There is a probability of the ride being cancelled due to poor wind or direction, so schedule it on the first day of your sightseeing.
5. Most balloon rides even with a Champagne (a French tourist told me it was a fruit soda and not Champagne)
6. You can still take pictures by going to Goreme early in the morning and take pictures of hot air balloons flying closer to the fairy chimneys

Quad Bike ride: I decided to skip this adventure because it generates lot of dust.

Tips:
1. Try inexpensive local food at Nevsehir and save your shopping list for Eminonu Market in Istanbul.
2. Call Ali to schedule your pick-up or local sightseeing travel 

3. There is always room for negotiation, so remember to bargain

I hope you enjoyed these travel blogs and find all the information useful to plan your trip. If you need more information, I'm just a holler away.