It has been more than 10 months since my last vacation. My wallet was not fat enough for one, but my mind was tired going through the relentless urban hoops. Vacation to me meant getting away from incessant clamor of mobile phones, relentlessly pouring emails, never ending to-do list, neurotic newspapers and media, and of all the maddening city life and traffic. Phew……
Where do I go and for how long was the question in my mind. The last vacation was along the seashore and this time I wanted an adventurous one and on a different terrain. Through this wandering I wanted to re-establish connect which once existed between man and nature.
My pick was Gharwal (Uttarakhand), a ravishing display of natural beauty. Snow capped peaks punctuated with coniferous vegetation, frigid rivers flowing through the deep ravines, oxygen rich air filled with the aroma from devadaru trees, and silent valleys resonating with the call of wild beetles.
The ten hour journey on the first day from Rishikesh on the gorgeous mountains of Gharwal through Dehradun and Mussorie ended at Barkot. Barkot is the winter town for all inhabitants on this peak of Gharwal.
Barkot is a small town situated at 1300 meters above sea level. Surprisingly this small dusty mountain town has a small bank, a post office and even a small market. Though guest houses have no heat, their hospitality and service makes Gharwal Mandal guest houses a comfortable place to retire.
Travel to Yamunotri is not that simple as it sounds. Serpentine roads on the mountains are narrow and treacherous. Mountains often get dislodged and pose a big risk to tourists, but wanderers somehow find a way out.
Here is one such adventure. There was a landslide 5 Kms after Sayanachatti and 5 kms before Janakichatti. The actual trek to Yamuntri begins at Janakichatti, but this landslide brought life to a standstill well before Janakichatti. Some decided to climb the mountain to get to the other side, while most of them decided to go back.
On all fours they balance their weight like a gymnast. He would always take the path of least resistance, who taught him? I marvelled looking at his scientifically engineered brain. Every step that they take defines life and death. I recollected the definition of Horse power and I was able to feel the horse power at work. I was dependent on his brawn and brain.
The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. Chesterton
Snow had already arrived and people were wrapped up in winter clothing. This place is open only 6 months a year due to severe winters.
Here is the picture of the Yamunotri peak taken while I was traveling on the mule.
I don’t know if I was taking a calculated risk or a stupid decision to ascend the mountain through the jungles on a mule, but once I was on top of the mule there was no going back. I held on to the mule tightly and he went up with a jerk and every now and then I had to swallow my guts.
Here I am smiling, but I can still recollect those Lilly-livered moments in life. God alone knows how many times I have called him while on the mule and staring at the valley below.
Of all the peaks on Gharwal, the trek to Yamunotri is the most tedious and grueling. A 0.7 KM ascend and 6 KM trek from Janakichetti brings you to Yamunotri. Yamunotri situated at an elevation of about 3,235 meters was my first destination. Yamunotri in the direction opposite to Gangotri, the road bifurcates from a place called Dharasu, between Rishikesh – Uttarkashi and goes on to Yamunotri. The shrine can also be visited via Mussorie and Barkot.
Bhairav Baba Mandir is the halfway point to Yamunotri. Situated on a hairpin bend, we get a scenic view on Yamunotri. October is off season on these ranges and people usually keep away due to low temperatures. But for those of you who want to spend time alone in the company of your woolens and Mother Nature, October offers the best sojourn. It takes 3 hours to make that 6 km climb to Yamunotri.
Barkot is a small town situated at 1300 meters above sea level. Surprisingly this small dusty mountain town has a small bank, a post office and even a small market. Though guest houses have no heat, their hospitality and service makes Gharwal Mandal guest houses a comfortable place to retire.
The contrasting landscapes (green mountains, dusty plains, and frigid aquamarine waters of Yamuna) are treat for the tired urban mind and eyes which are used to billboards and concrete jungles. Yamuna finds her way through deep gorges and finally smothers the dusty plains of Barkot.
Like all great travellers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen. ~Benjamin Disraeli
Travel to Yamunotri is not that simple as it sounds. Serpentine roads on the mountains are narrow and treacherous. Mountains often get dislodged and pose a big risk to tourists, but wanderers somehow find a way out.
Here is one such adventure. There was a landslide 5 Kms after Sayanachatti and 5 kms before Janakichatti. The actual trek to Yamuntri begins at Janakichatti, but this landslide brought life to a standstill well before Janakichatti. Some decided to climb the mountain to get to the other side, while most of them decided to go back.
I was one among the brave few who decided to ascend the mountain on a mule. The climb through the jungle was very scary given the rugged narrow terrain and deep gorges. For people like me who thought mules are stupid creatures, here was the moment to change paradigms. Mules are the only modes of transportation on such rugged terrains.
On all fours they balance their weight like a gymnast. He would always take the path of least resistance, who taught him? I marvelled looking at his scientifically engineered brain. Every step that they take defines life and death. I recollected the definition of Horse power and I was able to feel the horse power at work. I was dependent on his brawn and brain.
The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. ChestertonSnow had already arrived and people were wrapped up in winter clothing. This place is open only 6 months a year due to severe winters.
Here is the picture of the Yamunotri peak taken while I was traveling on the mule.
I don’t know if I was taking a calculated risk or a stupid decision to ascend the mountain through the jungles on a mule, but once I was on top of the mule there was no going back. I held on to the mule tightly and he went up with a jerk and every now and then I had to swallow my guts. Here I am smiling, but I can still recollect those Lilly-livered moments in life. God alone knows how many times I have called him while on the mule and staring at the valley below.Of all the peaks on Gharwal, the trek to Yamunotri is the most tedious and grueling. A 0.7 KM ascend and 6 KM trek from Janakichetti brings you to Yamunotri. Yamunotri situated at an elevation of about 3,235 meters was my first destination. Yamunotri in the direction opposite to Gangotri, the road bifurcates from a place called Dharasu, between Rishikesh – Uttarkashi and goes on to Yamunotri. The shrine can also be visited via Mussorie and Barkot.
Bhairav Baba Mandir is the halfway point to Yamunotri. Situated on a hairpin bend, we get a scenic view on Yamunotri. October is off season on these ranges and people usually keep away due to low temperatures. But for those of you who want to spend time alone in the company of your woolens and Mother Nature, October offers the best sojourn. It takes 3 hours to make that 6 km climb to Yamunotri.I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within. ~Lillian Smith
Standing on the foothills of Yamunotri one can relish the beauty of the clouds blanketing the peak, hear the symphony in the trickling Yamuna.
Gharwal Mountain ranges are blessed with numerous glaciers and sulphur springs. These sulphur springs offer a great relief from body pains and bruises. Haven’t you noticed that most of your skin creams and bruise ointments contain sulphur? These hot springs also serve as Jacuzzi for tired travelers. A bathing ghat built on Gaurikund at Yamunotri, right below the temple. A few feet away you have the frigid Yamuna flowing from the peak – a peaceful coexistence, the best contrasts in nature. This is the only place where you get abundant warm water in the mountains.
Suryakund is the steaming hot spring at Yamunotri. People use this kund to make their meal, an energy efficient eco friendly cooking opportunity. Rice and Aloo wrapped in a towel is lowered into the kund where the temperature of the spring remains at 95 deg C and serves as a pressure cooker. The cook cycle is just 20 minutes. The cooked rice and aloo is offered it to Mother Yamuna before distributed as prashad to devotees.
Pandaji completely covered in warm clothing from head to toe performing pooja at Yamunaji Mandir. Yamunaji is aroopa (doesn’t have a human form) and is worshipped in the form of a stone. She is believed to be the sister of Yama (Lord of death) and daughter of Surya. By offerings prayers at this shrine one gets absolved of all sins and gains the power to conquer death.
It was quiet on the top with absolutely no travelers at this time of the year. I descended the mountain just before dusk after spending couple of hours at the temple. Surprisingly I found a few ravines at this altitude. As always they were raiding through the garbage cans and offerings made to Yamunaji. Rituals in Hinduism have always revolved around feeding animals and taking care of the ecosystem.
There are no cottages at Yamunotri and one has trek back 6kms and halt at Janakichatti, foothills of Yamunotri for the night. Room heaters and electricity are a luxury. One has to seek refuge under multiple blankets with the complete winter wear to keep warm for the night.
If you are wondering whom I spent the cold nights with……
Standing on the foothills of Yamunotri one can relish the beauty of the clouds blanketing the peak, hear the symphony in the trickling Yamuna.
Gharwal Mountain ranges are blessed with numerous glaciers and sulphur springs. These sulphur springs offer a great relief from body pains and bruises. Haven’t you noticed that most of your skin creams and bruise ointments contain sulphur? These hot springs also serve as Jacuzzi for tired travelers. A bathing ghat built on Gaurikund at Yamunotri, right below the temple. A few feet away you have the frigid Yamuna flowing from the peak – a peaceful coexistence, the best contrasts in nature. This is the only place where you get abundant warm water in the mountains. Suryakund is the steaming hot spring at Yamunotri. People use this kund to make their meal, an energy efficient eco friendly cooking opportunity. Rice and Aloo wrapped in a towel is lowered into the kund where the temperature of the spring remains at 95 deg C and serves as a pressure cooker. The cook cycle is just 20 minutes. The cooked rice and aloo is offered it to Mother Yamuna before distributed as prashad to devotees. Pandaji completely covered in warm clothing from head to toe performing pooja at Yamunaji Mandir. Yamunaji is aroopa (doesn’t have a human form) and is worshipped in the form of a stone. She is believed to be the sister of Yama (Lord of death) and daughter of Surya. By offerings prayers at this shrine one gets absolved of all sins and gains the power to conquer death. It was quiet on the top with absolutely no travelers at this time of the year. I descended the mountain just before dusk after spending couple of hours at the temple. Surprisingly I found a few ravines at this altitude. As always they were raiding through the garbage cans and offerings made to Yamunaji. Rituals in Hinduism have always revolved around feeding animals and taking care of the ecosystem.There are no cottages at Yamunotri and one has trek back 6kms and halt at Janakichatti, foothills of Yamunotri for the night. Room heaters and electricity are a luxury. One has to seek refuge under multiple blankets with the complete winter wear to keep warm for the night.
If you are wondering whom I spent the cold nights with……
He was my friend for the night……
The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes "sight-seeing." ~Daniel J. Boorstin
The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes "sight-seeing." ~Daniel J. Boorstin
Nice...very nice.
ReplyDeleteJK
Excellent article and wonderful color pictures. Very informative with lot of descriptions.
ReplyDelete