Ganesha's day out in Paris

When the French vacated their colonies in India, many Indians felt a deep connect with the French and came along with them to France. But when they came over they carried undeclared priceless items called faith, culture, and tradition in their hearts that airport scanners couldn’t detect. And the Republic of Francaise welcomed them, let them practice their faith and carry on their traditions. The Ganesha Car Festival in Paris is a testimony to the mutual love and affection.

The car festival for Ganesha organized by the Trustees and devotees of the Manikka Vinyagar Temple, rue Pajol, Paris has been a tradition and this year it fell of Aug 31.

 

Discover Mada Street in Paris

Rue du Fbg Saint Denis, can be compared to our North Mada Street in Mylapore or any street around a temple in India. Smell of jasmine and agarbathi competes with spicy curry smell emanating from Sangeetha and Saravana Bhavan. The cash and carry stores sell everything from beetle leaf, banana leaf, tender coconuts, jack fruits, and something that we may never find in India: yes, honey mangoes from Pakistan. The tailor shops, salons and beauty parlors with Indian music and cosmetics only bring back memories of home in a beautiful way.

A day out with devotion

A week before devotees were asked to register their names to be a part of paal kudam (milk pot), thee chatti (fire pan), kavadi (a mini palanquin decorated with peacock feathers). The first two offerings are for mother goddess and the last one is for Karthik, younger brother of Ganesh.

I noticed the fervor when I boarded ligne 5 at Oberkampf. Women were dressed in sarees and children in traditional Indian clothes and it felt like a suburban train journey in Chennai carrying people from Velachery to Mylapore Kapali Temple car festival.

When I arrived at Rue du Fbg Saint Denis, both sidewalks were clean and just washed. All shops suspended their business for the day and had set up a table with lamps, Purna kumbam, and coconuts mounds smeared with turmeric and vermillion to welcome Ganesha and invoke his blessings. They had even decorated the sidewalks with maavilai (mango leaf), thoranam (festoons from coconut leaf). It was a day out with devotion.

India recreated

Women decorated their hair with jasmine flowers and forehead with vermillion, while men were dressed in dhoti and vibuthi smeared on their forehead. Chants on Ganesha from Ganesha Pancharatnam by MS Subbalakshmi to devotional songs by Sirkazhi Govindarajan recreated the same ambience back home.

First came the Nadhaswaram (wind Instrument similar to clarinet) with thavil and melam (Indian drums), followed by women carrying milk pots and fire pans and then followed men in rocking their kavadis back and forth to the chants of Arohara. Coming from a country famous for child labour, it was heartening to see young children carry a kavadi in Paris. Yes, it was responsibility of faith that was being transferred to the next generation.

Nibbling on faith

Just before the car with Ganesha arrived men furiously picked up the coconuts and smashed on the ground. In fact, every store had a coconut mound smeared with vermillion and turmeric. To me the smashing of coconuts sounded like 10,000 wala (fireworkds) on the eve of Diwali. It was heartening to see some local children pick up pieces of coconut and nibble on them.

Propelled by devotion

Despite the car being small compared to the temple cars in India, but the devotion was no less devotion in the gathering. Men held the two thick ropes tied to the car and propelled by the power of devotion.

 Over a few thousands had congregated yesterday morning to take the blessings of Ganesha and I never knew Paris had so many of Indian descent. In fact many locals had also brought their children along with them to watch the spectacle. Culture and tradition is passed on through education and show & tell.

The fashion capital has room for your faith

We’ve often heard and seen fashionistas boorishly printing Indian gods and goddesses in footwear and bikini. Is it even possible to find your respect for your faith in the fashion capital? Did you see the pictures and the videos? So, what do you think?

Let me leave you with the thought that a family friend shared, “You cannot take the India out of an Indian.”

Establishing your tradition and faith in a city where you live is how you it your home. Tradition and culture connects you to the roots and gets passed on to the next generation through practice and getting kids involved early is the trick. So, stay connected to your roots and culture, retain your identity, practice your faith without harming others and remember is what makes the East an attractive destination for the West.

Now you know why I call Paris my second home. Yes, home is where the heart is.

To view videos and more photos: https://app.box.com/s/acjcllsbam62bc5guyu3