Monday, March 26, 2007

Mylapore Mardigras


When watermelons and tender coconut adorn the side walk we know summer has atlast arrived. This time around Mylapore pavements had more than just the thirst quenchers. An entire ecosystem mushroomed within a day to celebrate the annual festival of Mylapore. People seem more active than bees and ants. It was definitely an awe moment.

The gaint pandal at the entrance of the temple was welcoming and it set the stage for a grand gala festival. Mylapore has always been the epicenter of cultural and religious groups. Be it music, arts, street plays, or cultural fair there is something that this temple neighborhood offers for everyone even today. Though barricades and pandals erected on each of the four maadaveedhis made commute a nightmare, but still people were willing to put up the inconvenience to watch the fun and frolic unfold.

The Annual Panguni festival at Kapali temple began on March 24 this year with the traditional flag hoisting in the temple premises.


Shiva along with Parvati is taken on a procession along the four maadaveedhis each day at night. During these days Myalpore air is filled with a special concoction of soothing music emanating from the traditional wind instrument (Nadhaswaram), recitation of Sama vedam and hymns from various puranams by Oduvars. The burning of incense on the side and strong scent of jasmine from the sidewalk vendors makes this place spiritually and culturally invigorating.

The vahanas for the procession change every day. Traditionally it starts with Suriya prabhai and Chandra prabhai on the first two days of the festival. Adhikaranandhi on the third, Vrishabaha vahanam on the fifth, the car on the seventh, procession of 63 Nayanmars (Arupathimoovar) on the eight day draws scores of people from all over the city. The final day concludes with the celebration of the traditional marriage between Shiva and Parvathi (falls on the day of Uthiram star).

The festival is a big 10 day entertainment feast for all the kids and elderly. Within the temple premises oldies throng to hear the concerts and spiritual lectures, while artist from the nearby villages perform folk arts to entreat people on the streets. The little ones go around the streets and bring back a handful of items that include balloons, watches, sugar candy, flutes in exchange for a small change from their piggy bank.

The festival brings together an entire ecosystem of art, culture, music and religion filled with fun and frolic. Apart from sidewalks being turned into “Water or Buttermilk Pandal” for the Car and the Arupathimoovar festival every inch of the sidewalk is turned into a shop that sells trinkets, coconuts, flowers, incense, peacock feathers, cheap jewellery, and rangoli patterns and heaps of colors. Narikoravas, a diminishing trible also throng the temple city to display their intricate handwork that range from tuft of fox hair to ward of evil at home, catapult to hunt down birds, and chains made from colorful beads. Paramapatham and thayakkattai (Snakes & Ladders) and Pallankuzhi are hot sellers at fair.

It has been more than 25 years since I attended one and there seems no change in the
celebration. There is more fervor and flavor with which the festival is celebrated today
and tradition intact. When one would think that fast lifestyle and western influence will
pigeon hole and dilute such festivals, but on the contrary attendance is increasing year after year. This very festival connects people all over the city and the globe. The very utterance of
the word Arupathimoovar transcends peoples’ thoughts across latitudes and longitudes
and makes them feel connected and charged. Somethings last forever!!

3 comments:

  1. Another masterpiece from you. Be it Ramana, Theatre or Mylapore, you have the ability to transplant the reader to the exact time and location of the event.... Amazing writing skills, please keep shining it more.... Definitely makes us come back for more n more. Thanks for taking the time and serving the treat for the less fortunate like us; who cannot enjoy it in real :)

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  2. Dear Kumar:
    Thanks for patronizing. I write especially for people like you who belong to this very soil but moved far away for reasons. The very description of the ambience should help you connect with the place. Sharing the 2 cents my sense register is my pleasure. I must say thanks for reading and I hope you will come back some day soon.

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  3. Mylapore Panguni Uthiram Festival description was too good Chandra.

    Thanksfor sharing this and Happy Blogging!!

    ReplyDelete