Sunday, November 4, 2007

Part 2 – Gangotri

People travel to wonder at the height of the mountains, at the huge waves of the seas, at the long course of the rivers, at the vast compass of the ocean, at the circular motion of the stars, and yet they pass by themselves without wondering. St. Augustine, Early Christian Priest

Isn’t that a profound quote to ponder? Hmmm….

After the adventurous to trip to Yamunotri I was all geared for more adventure. My body had got used to the serpentine roads, cold nights, and mind was ready for more excitement after that cliff hanger.

Nature will bear the closest inspection. She invites us to lay our eye level with her smallest leaf, and take an insect view of its plain. Henry David Thoreau

That is what I did driving on the mountains. There were so many scenic spots during the drive, and I stopped every now and then to enjoy the beauty and absorb it all. Every pixel in my brain was busy capturing the images on the mountain. There is nothing but only of silence on the mountains, an enjoyable silence. All that one could hear is the gushing rivers and humming beetles.
She is called Bhagirathi in child hood, the wild and turbulent Himalyan river named after Bhagirath. She originates at Gaumukh from the Gangotri glacier at an elevation of 7,756 m (25,446 ft), in Uttarakhand. She flows for about 700 km (435 mi) before merging with the Alaknanda at an elevation of 465 m (1,526 ft) in the town of Devprayag.


The river downstream from the holy confluence, Sangam, is known as the Ganges. The controversial Tehri dam lies at the confluence of the Bhāgirathi and Bhilangana, near Tehri.

Gangotri - Where flowers bloom as an expression of joy, where walks, picnics and treks lead one to undiscovered stretches of green, grassy land... serving as a perfect invitation to sit down, relax and enjoy the surroundings. A perfect tribute to nature.

Gangotri, close to the source of Ganga (Ganges river) and seat of the goddess Ganga, is one of the four sites in the Char Dham pilgrimage circuit. At an altitude of 3,042 m, a Gorkha Commander, Amar Singh Thapa, constructed the temple in the early 18th century AD.

Right opposite to the Gangaji Mandir stands the lofty peak of Gangotri, the origin of Bhagirathi. I wanted to get to the peak and peek at her origin. Isn’t life is all about exploration and discovery, mostly of nature and rarely of self?

I have heard about her from puranas, but as always the human mind is curious to know more pristine beauty and secrets. My climb was to see her. She is adorable even in her middle age, carrying a shade turquoise, caressing the plains and readily absolving us of our sins.

And see the rivers how they run Through woods and meads, in shade and sun, Sometimes swift, sometimes slow,-- Wave succeeding wave, they go A various journey to the deep, Like human life to endless sleep! John Dyer

Situated amidst the incredible beauty of mountain peaks, 5000 mts. high is the quiet resort of Harsil. Living all my life in safe and secured homes, I wanted to experience a night in a camping ground on the banks of the river surrounded by apple orchards. Sleeping under the star studded and moonlit skies with lullaby orchestrated by beetles and gurgling river. And waking up to the fragrance of flowers, fresh oxygen, and call of birds. Wow! Does it sound like a fairly tale?

Trees are the earth's endless effort to speak to the listening heave - Rabindranath Tagore

Due to extreme winters occupation on these mountain peaks is seasonal. Apple orchards extend on either side of the river and offer employment opportunity for men and women. Freshly picked apples are packed in carton boxes and are brought to the plains in refrigerated vans.
All I could remember when I saw these apples was Vicco Vajradanti advertisement for tooth paste. Harsil is famous for juicy and luscious apples. Sugar and juice content in these apples are definitely higher than Himachal apples. Do you believe it just cost Rs. 20 per kg? Want to take a bite?
There are no convents, school buses, and spine bending book bags to carry to the school. People walk along the mountain slope with cattle and sheep. The school is nothing fancy, but just a shed, a make shift school for kids, a few books, few students and few teachers – life simplified.

The innocent and beautiful have no enemy, but time – WB Yeats


Apart from agriculture, cattle rearing and farming, the mountains also offer other kinds of employment, but it is hard physical labor. Elderly tourist and travelers are carried either on mules, palkis, or by pitoos. They all look thin, fit and healthy, unlike the ones in the cities with corpulent tummies, clogged arteries and gasping for breath every few steps.

2 comments:

  1. Very nice Chandra. To me it reminds of my toddler days in Uttraranchal and though I personally do not remember much, we have some black and white photos and family memories.

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  2. .destiny

    Chandron,
    Thank you for bringing us closer to Nature through your pictures and sharing your experiences in words.

    The more closer we are to Nature , the more closer we are to our own self I beleive.

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