Sunday, February 13, 2011

Mumbai Expresso!


My first trip to this city was in 2005 and I was mesmerized watching orderliness in chaos, it felt like watching the activity in an ant mound or a bee hive. From the moment I landed at the airport I could feel the pulse, spirit, energy and adrenalin rush in this coastal city. Is it in their blood or is it in the food they eat, but everybody seems to walk (to me it is run) around with a purpose. Should I call this a treadmill city?

When I landed in Chicago for the first time, first year ago, I looked at the city with both awe and admiration and every time I land in Mumbai I look at the city with same awe and admiration. Suburban trains is the back bone of this city and it also brings together people for a purpose and takes them back to their families at the end of the day. Those old and petite black Padmini’s (Fiat cars) chauffeuring around, autos with functioning meters and auto guys who return back the last penny, while those at the top of the pyramid scam war widows (Adarsh society), this is a city where old and new, honesty and dishonesty, bollywood and stock market coexist (both inflates assets). It will not be an overstatement to say Mumbai is the NY and LA of India.

I must have come to this city more than half a dozen times and every time the purpose was different. From official visits to vacation to prospecting (I did a mini swayamvar in this city long before Rakhi Sawant) I have fond memories and little disappointments of this city. Official trips gave me a cab at my disposal and I usually have Mariappans, Tamilarasus, and Velus drive me around. I know the cab companies profile their drivers and guests to create that extra comfort and I don’t miss interviewing every guy who drives me around. If you are Mallu there is a mini Mallu land in Mulund, and a mini Mylapore in Chembur and Matunga. This city easily lets you root, yet help you retain your flavors and characteristics.

Mumbai has a bad image of over-crowded slums in the minds of Indians and the image just got bigger and global after Slum Dog Millionaire. This time I took at window seat while flying over Mumbai to catch a glimpse of all that I could see. I saw the Worli to Bandra Sea bridge, the bend at the beginning, the cable running from the sky to hold the iron and concrete, but I was not sure how many scams were buried under the ocean. The infamous Dharavi seemed elusive from the air, but I must tell you I have walked inside the slum.

I was not surprised when another Marippan picked me at the airport. I sat in the cab and my usual questions kept flowing like Mumbai traffic. This man from Tuticorin, father of two boys was living all by himself and sent his wife and kids back home and he says it is affordable to manage a family living there. I know it sounds like a father with visitation rights, but Mariappan's dreams were hatching and growing elsewhere, while many other come to this city with a hope to hatch and make their dreams a reality.

I was born in Tamilnadu and every time I am outside my state and when someone speaks Thamizh my heart just softens. We have heard and seen how Thamizhs who go to work in Srilanka, Malaysia and Singapore are treated. So I make it a point to ask about them and their life when I see them outside of Tamilnadu. Every time I don’t fail to ask them about their arrival in Mumbai, dens, experience of the Maximum city, equation with the localites, family, kids etc. On a few occasions I have even asked them to take me to their dwelling.

In the 60 mins ride to work Mariappan shared so much about his childhood, experiences in the city and distance away from his family with a stranger without asking any questions in return. But that is what the “Thamizh connect” does. He genuinely opened his life and heart to me, but sadly all I could share was a few currency notes from my wallet. He made me feel helpless and cheap, but I knew those extra notes will give his family a little more happiness.

Life is busy, people are on the run, but still people pause to show their love and care for their friends and family. Mumbaikars don't have time to even gossip about their film stars & Bollywood, it is people who live outside who have all the time to wag their tongue.

Every time I come to this city I avoid staying in the hotels, I don’t care how many stars they carry, but My friend Arun’s den on the 14 floor in Borivali is my heaven. Honesty, love and care flows here. There is no air-condition but there is ample cross ventilation for fresh thoughts and makes it a real heaven on earth. From his living room I can look down at the chaotic traffic on the Western Express Highway and yet life here is warm, cool, safe and secure. The blanket and bed I get at his place is the most comfortable place to rest after a long day, his wardrobe comes to my rescue when I failed to bring my clothes (I don’t show up like Yana Gupta) and the morning breakfast from his roommate, Pardipto makes, this my home away from home. What a boundary-less living!

Be it a dwelling on the 14th floor in Borivali or a den in the boundaries of the city with Mariappan, Mumbai is a cradle of love, hope and hardwork. For many Mumbai may be an express city, but for me it is an expresso city. That one shot of expresso, that one shot of love, care and security from the friendship is enough to keep me going for a year. Why seek heaven when a city of Earth gives you all that you desire. I am already craving for my next shot, yes Aamchi Mumbai is calling.

2 comments:

  1. Interesting account Chandra. Totally agree with you on the Thamizh Connect phenomenon, although I must admit, unlike Newton's laws, it isn't applicable everywhere. I'm sure you know what I am referring to.

    And you're right in echoing your thoughts on some of the facets of the city that don't make healthy viewing - some things are best left unsaid, for the right reasons.

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  2. Hi Chandra,

    Thanks for writing such a lovely article about my City.

    You said it very well-- Mumbai allows you to retain your individuality and yet accepts you as a local Mumbaikar.

    Though I am in Pune.. I cannot get Mumbai out of me and it is reassuring to know it is just next door.
    Mumbai .. Meri jaan. Welcome to Mumbai.I will be there again in the coming weekend.

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