Kerala is blessed with everything to captivate, beguile and ensnare strangers, tourists, traders, missionaries, etc. Fertile soil, beauty and tranquility of the backwaters, colorful and aromatic spices (black pepper, nutmeg, cardamom, etc.), rustling noise from the fronds of omnipresent coconut trees, nasal sound, melodic meter, and sweetness from the language (Malayalam), oil massages, and finally, cleanliness and personal hygiene of Malayalis, there is a lot to adore, appreciate and celebrate about “God’s Own Country”! And on this trip I found one more to add to the list, the testosterone powered boat race at Aranmula.
The tradition of Snake Boat Races:
Snake boat (aka Palliyodam) races are the highlight of the monsoon and festival season in Kerala. During the monsoon when the rivers and back waters are filled with clear and fresh rain water, Kerala gets ready to host boat races and the Aranmula is the oldest, others are Alleppey’s Punnamda Lake (Nehru Trophy), Changanassery’s Champakkulam Moolam (the most popular), and Payippad Jalotsavam held on Payippad Lake.
A Chundam Vallam aka a snake boat is 100-120 feet long and holds about 50 rowers. There are helmsmen, singers and rowers on every boat and everyone on the boat has a role to play. A colorful umbrella at the center of the boat rotates to the beat, energy and vanchipaatu (tunes sung during the race to motivate the rowers and engage the spectators) add to the glitterati. Each village has its own snake boat and their names are etched on tail of the boat and villagers on the banks of the river cheer as their boats race. It is a visual and aural treat to watch testosterone powered boats tearing through the fresh river waters. The Snake boat race highlights many of the characteristics (team spirit, cohesion, energy, enthusiasm, etc.) one needs to be successful in all walks of life.
Read Wikipedia for more information- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snake_boat
Aranmula Palliyodam:
The Aranmula boat race is the oldest and is held during the week of Onam (falls on Uttratadhi star, usually fourth day after Onam). Carpenters do their annual maintenance during the summer by polishing the boats with mixture of fish oil, carbon mixed with eggs to keep the boat strong and reduce the friction during motion. One can see many Palliyodams parked on the banks of river Pampa at Aranmula even weeks before the event. Each of these boats represents a village and is considered sacred. Only the village men are allowed to row the boats and usually dress in white dhotis and wear a cloth around their waist with no foot wear or sunscreen.
A day before the race, you can catch many of these boats making trips, up and down river Pampa and preparing for the race. There is ceremonial prayer before the boat is lowered in the water and the head of the village usually is the Captain of the boat. He gives orders to lower, steer, race and cheer them to the finish line.
Here is a video of lowering the boat:
Here is a video from the heats, the previous day:
On the day the race, at around 9 am, the elephant from Parthasarathy temple carries the flame to the beats of chenda melam and leads the parade to the start point behind the PWD Guesthouse at Aranmula. The boat race begins with a small entertainment from the parade of boats from all villages going up and down the river. Teams being to display their power and might at the parade. At around 3 pm the actual race began and this year there was 48 boats.
Here is a video from the race:
For more information on Aranmula boat race - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aranmula_Boat_Race
Where to stay?
Malakkarethu House - http://malakkarethuhouse.com/
Beware: You are entering a zone of fruit bearing trees on the banks of river Pampa, and the density of the trees can give you a feel of a tree house. The choice of trees – coconut, papaya, nutmeg, jackfruit, plantain, mango, amla etc. with resplendent flower is sure to assault your sensory nerves.
A flight of stairs in the backyard takes you to River Pampa, which is revered by puranas and mythology. Watching the river flow and life that comes around it at the crack of dawn, during the day and sunset is purely meditative.
The house is aesthetically laid out incorporating the elements of “Vaastu”. The Kerala style ventilation on the first floor bring precious oxygen from the trees, the mutram at the center of the house brings ample light and sunshine. From the hostess’s heart to the size of the rooms and bathrooms, and the friendly and pleasant staffs, this homestay is a heaven on earth!
Dr. Sujatha who owns this ancestral house, makes the homestay a superior experience with all her care, kindness and affection. She runs this place true to the mantra “Athithi devo bhava”. Every meal she puts on the table is cooked with love and care and served with delicious hospitality. One doesn’t need to worry about quality, quantity and or a plastic smile that accompanies staff and service of a commercial hotel or tourist resort. Dr. Sujatha is a mother, teacher, travel agent, friend, trusted advisor and nature lover all rolled into one. You can be assured of a superior stay experience if you made it your choice to stay here.
When does the Aranmula boat race fall?
The Aranmula boat race is the oldest and is held during the week of Onam (falls on Uttratadhi star, four day after Onam).
Here is the calendar to all boat races and other events in Kerala - http://www.keralatourism.org/festivalcalendar.php
Where to watch the race from?
- Watch from water: Some people hire motor boats and watch the race unfold from the water.
- Buy a seat: There is an option to buy a seat (Rs 1000, 500, 250, 100) in the pavilion on the banks of river Pampa to watch the race and tickets are sold at the counter at Sri Parthasarathy Temple.
- Free spots: There are also ample vantage points on the river that are free and one must get there early to catch a spot.
- If you are staying at Malakkarethu House, then it is free and you have a private pavilion set-up by the property owner.
How to get to Aranmula from the train station?
Chengannur is the nearest railway head and there are private busses and autos that ply from right outside the station to Aranmula. The 10 km auto ride to Aranmula should cost around 100-150 rupees.
What else to see in Aranmula?
Sri Parthasarathy temple was built by Arjuna (one of the Pandava brothers) during their vanavaas. There is separate sanctum for Balabadhra one level below the ground.
On the road straight down from main entrance to Parthasarathy temple is Sri Mahaganapathy temple. The frescos on outer walls around the sanctum are riveting, and the notable one is the Sakthi Panchakshari, that has Siva, Parvathi, Ganesha and Karthik.
What is Aranmula famous for?
Aranmula is the only place in the world that manufactures metal mirrors. These mirrors don’t contain glass or mercury and the metal surface is shined to reflect images as clear as a mirror.
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